This is some of the best Oakville I’ve drunk- especially at the price point! Allow me to digress for a minute and introduce you to Schrader Cellars, Oakville, California. A winery that has gained almost mythical status and spoken about in hushed tones of reverence in just 20 years as well as commanding prices out of most people’s reach.
With the help of Winemaker Tom Rivers Brown, they source grapes from the best vineyards in California including ‘first-growth’ Beckstoffer To-Kalon Vineyard in Oakville, Beckstoffer Georges III Vineyard in Rutherford, Beckstoffer Las Piedras in Northwest St. Helena, and more recently the Monastery Block To-Kalon Vineyard in Oakville.
Established by Fred and Carol Schrader in 1998 the winery has gone from strength to strength achieving a combined total of 27 perfect 100-point scores- an unheard feat. Winemaker Tom Rivers Brown came on board in 2000 after a chance meeting while working in a local wine shop.
“Our philosophy behind the creation of Double Diamond nearly two decades ago is that our friends and fellow wine lovers should be able to enjoy a fabulous quality, well-made Cabernet Sauvignon every day without breaking the bank” -Fred Schrader.
The Double Diamond Cabernet is sourced totally from Oakville, with both previous vintages (2013 and 2016) selling out immediately. Needless to say, this is an extraordinary wine and almost impossible to obtain. I say almost because I’ve managed to obtain 60 bottles (Kahn’s Fine Wines). The 2017 vintage has had 2% Merlot added.
The nose is so individualistic and enticing. Dark fruits are both impressive and irresistible with just a hint of spice. The palate is remarkable with focused expression balanced with a silky-smooth mouthfeel that defies its youth. Profile is big, bold and rich with elegance to boot with black and blue fruits seamlessly wrapped with hints of spices, finely grained tannins presenting themselves through the middle palate to a long lingering finish. At the risk of repeating myself this is some of the best Oakville I’ve tasted and drinks well beyond the price tag. Looking forward to drinking this in 5 to 10 years.
Those of you that know me know that I live to find that next impossible deal so I can offer you incredible wines at exceptional value- here are three I recently found!
NOTE: I try not to let my work life (I’m the wine buyer at Kahn’s Fine Wines in Indianapolis with 4,000 plus wines) encroach into the blog but sometimes its impossible. If you live in Indianapolis and are interested in purchasing these wines, you know where to get them.
The small family winery known as Fernández de Piérola winery was established in 1996 with the aim of producing quality wines with a distinguishing personality. One that would reflect the terroir of the vineyard, and would shine about all other wineries in the region.
Combine this with age old wine making traditions with planting vines in the “Marco Real” (square planting system) and “Marco Rectangular” (rectangular planting system) allows their Tempernillo to flourish and develop its own, individual character. One sip of these wines and you’ll agree, they have achieved their goal.
Crianza 2016
100% Tempernillo and is aged in barrels for 18 months and bares the burgundy red color indicating as such. Soft, approachable with loads of red fruits this release screams value. This would be value at $19.99 but, at half that price, its quite literally a steal. Buy a case and pour it at your next cook out! Situation permitting of course. $12.99
The Reserva
again 100% Tempernillo and is barrel aged for 24 months earning the designation of dark red displayed on the label. This is ‘cut from the same jib’ as the younger brother but with noticeably more depth and complexity and of course 8 more years of combined aging. This is smooth, welcoming and a delight to drink. $31.99
The Grand Reserva 2004
again 100% Tempernillo and has been barrel aged for 36 months displaying the royal blue color. This is definitely the big brother of the three and shows vast improvement in terms of depth and complexity with instant appeal as you take your first sip. Silky smooth mouthfeel with dark fruits, plum and red fruits coating your mouth with impressive length on the finish. $39.99
Rosé wines could be called the best new trend of this century, certainly the most refreshing. Yes, you guessed it, I love Rosé wines. Fifteen years ago, you were looked at strangely if you served your guests a Rose. Ten years ago, you were considered cool and hip. Today of course Rose wines are accepted more than ever.
A Little Rosé History.
It is believed that Rosé was one of the first, if not the first, style of wine made dating back 2,500 years to the Greeks and Romans. It wasn’t really until “pale Clarets” starting appearing from Bordeaux that ‘Rosé’ style wines were even mentioned.
After World War II two Portuguese producers, Mateus and Lancers released sweet, slightly sparkling rosés to the European and American markets. They both went on to set sales records and inspired the “White Zinfandel” trend of the mid 70’s onwards.
The European markets drifted towards a drier style Rosé whilst the US Markets still cling to the sweeter “blush” style like White Zinfandel, although that trend is changing.
Probably due to the climate and the cuisine of Provence, the lighter, drier style of wine flourished. The rest of France, as well as the world soon caught on and Rosé began appearing from winemakers all over the world, made from dozens of different grape varietals.
Rosé is grown all over the world from more varietal’s
than people care to keep track of but it is fair to say when
it comes to Rosé, Provence is Queen!!
With one exception, all juice from grapes is ‘clear’ or more accurately a pale straw color. The red color in wine comes from skin contact from as the juice is left in contact with the skins and can last from a few hours to a few days in the case of Rosé, up to 28 days. The longer the skin contact the bigger, bolder and more tannic the wine is. The myth that Rosé wines are a blend of white and red wines is just that, a myth and is actually forbidden by law in France, except for Champagne.
When it comes to style and flavor profile some generalizations can be made- French, and more specifically Province Rosé are more on the delicate side with US Rosé tending to be bolder, the same can also be said for Italian, Australian and New Zealand.
Flavor profiles are determined by the grape varietals used. The bottom line is, experiment, enjoy, and if you think Rosé are a summer wine only think again. By the way, don’t ignore Rosé Champagnes/Bubbles (a little political correctness)
This could just be the best Chardonnay you will drink this year!
In 1997 Phil Sexton arrived in the Yarra Valley in search of vineyards with very specific conditions, or terroir if you like, to make Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs with purity and finesse. Joined by winemaker Steve Flamsteed in 2003, his dream has come true, producing five single vineyard Chardonnays with individuality and focus. Their unwavering commitment to produce the best has resulted in some serious recognition- 34 trophies. 100 gold medals and being named in the ‘Top 100 Wineries in the World by Wine & Spirits Magazine’, six years running.
The wine I’m presenting today is a blend of those 5 vineyards to produce an exceptional Chardonnay, lean, crisp, fruit focused and an absolute delight to drink. Highly allocated with only 400 six packs hitting the US, we were fortunate enough to secure ten 6 packs- 60 bottles only! At Kahn’s Fine Wines in Indianapolis.
This is impressive right out of the gate. Stone fruits seamlessly fit together with notes of citrus, melon and an interesting bready note with just a hint of saline and subtle spices on a long finish. Exceptional depth and complexity with such purity and precision, combine that with a French Chablis leaning, this is a must for Chardonnay lovers. A winner all round with and a Congratulations going to Steve Flamsteed’s ability to nurture the best out of the exceptional vineyards he is blessed to work with.
I’m pairing this with crab cakes and a cream garlic sauce with stir fried vegetables and garlic bread. Monday night in Indianapolis just got a whole lot better!
Winemaker recommends pairing with: Kingfish sashimi, miso, soy sauce dressing; fresh goats curd and olive tapenade on grilled sourdough; roast crispy skin baby chicken, preserved lemon & roast garlic; Aged Pecorino cheese drizzled with extra virgin olive oil.
Did I mention 95 pt ratings from Wine Enthusiast and Campbell Mattinson?
There are so many other White Wines, thousands in fact. Below is a shorter list you may want to work through. Check out my reviews and you’ll find most, if not all, in the course of the coming year.
Pinot Grigio: Grown in Italy (lighter and more acidic), Alsace (bolder and spicier) and California (stylistically in the middle), originally a French grape called Pinot Gris, transplanted and grown with incredible success in Italy.
Viognier: Grown in France (Rhône Valley), Australia (Yalumba Winery) and more recently finding success in California (Cline, Fess Parker & Joseph Phelps) leaning to the full-bodied with a soft, lush style.
Gruner Veltliner: known as Austria’s national grape. The best is considered to come from Wachau, Kremstal, and Kamptal regions in north eastern Austria. Characterized by crisp clean mouthfeel and green apple. tropical fruits with spicy and nutty notes.
Semillon: Well known in Bordeaux where it’s blended with Sauvignon Blanc, single varietal offerings excel from Hunter Valley, NSW and Barossa in Sth Australia with apple, almond, pear, honeyed melon and range from dry to subtle sweetness. Ages well.
Garganega: Italian grape from the Veneto region in Northeastern Italy known for putting Italy’s crisp clean Soave wines on the map.
Marsanne and Rousanne: Two Rhône Valley varietals that have awesome appeal as blending grapes adding nuances of floral and herbal tea to both nose and palate.
Arnise and Cortese (Gavi): Two grape varietals from Piedmont, northeastern Italy that are crisp clean refreshing wines with depth, complexity and appeal.
Other grape varietals you should explore, if you haven’t already: Chenin Blanc, Torrontes, Grenache Blanc, Tempernillo Blanc, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Albarino, Muscat, Silvaner
White wine is fun, it’s cool and refreshing and screams summer, Of course white wines can be drunk all year round.
The interesting thing about grapes is the transition grapes go through from start to finish. White grapes in their early stage of growth can taste like tart green apples and not much else, but give them a few months to harvest time and wonderful flavors of citrus, tropical fruits such as pineapple, banana, coconut as well as pear, peach, kiwi and quince develop.
The three main white grape varieties that nearly all white wine is made from are:
Chardonnay: is the most popular white wine today with the US leading the way in the plantings / production race followed by France and Australia. See photo above.
US Chardonnay can be lean and elegant but trends tend to favor the oaky buttery style that is typical of a lot of California releases. French releases from the Burgundy region range from rich and complex to light and crisp on the more affordable end. Australian releases on the whole are more French in style than say California and can range from rich complex wines to more elegant and restrained with Margaret River, Barossa, Tasmania and Regional New South Wales produce some of the best.
Food Pairings: include Seafood, Shellfish and Chicken Dishes and Popcorn.
Price: this can run the gamut from $15 to $150 or more.
Sauvignon Blanc: the main regions are Loire Valley (Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé) and Bordeaux (where it is blended with Semillon) New Zealand with some fine examples from California and Australia. Loire and Bordeaux offerings are characterized by green fruits of citrus, apples, pears and gooseberries with notes of flint and smoky minerality. New Zealand counterparts have a core of grapefruit with lychee, passionfruit, fresh cut grass and tropical flavors and are more fruit forward but with a crisp refreshing character. Mondavi’s “Fume Blanc” (its original name) and Heritance’s offerings are impressive whilst Groom Winery (Adelaide Hills) and numerous Margaret River Wineries keep Australia in the race.
Food Pairings: include seafood, poultry, salads, asparagus and goat cheese.
Price: NZ offers reasonable prices from $10 – $25 while up to $50.
Riesling: Germany, Alsace, Washington State and Australia all grow impressive Riesling, sourcing sweeter offerings from Germany, Alsace and Washington State and bone-dry offerings from Clare and Eden Valley’s in South Australia. Germany Rieslings fall into three categories from dryer to sweetest: Kabinett, Spätlese and Auslese and are beautifully balanced and can often cellar out 30 – 40 years or more. Flavor profiles range from citrus, tangerine, tropical fruits through to dry offerings from Sth Australia dominated by citrus, lemon and key lime pie- will cellar out to 15 years.
Food Pairings: Seafood, Chicken. Remember, the spicier the food, the sweeter the wine.
to write a series of articles to introduce you to the world of wine, all the nuances of different varietals, how to choose glassware, storage, cellaring and of course food pairing so keep an eye out for that in the coming weeks. Hope you find them informative and fun to read.
Viognier is a delicious aromatic grape that varies in profile from region to region. It is a lost step child in the family, that barely registered in the radar 50 years ago. Its origins point back to Northern Rhone but there is some additional evidence that Croatia may be its birthplace- this is also the birth place of Syrah/Shiraz and Zinfandel so it’s not that unlikely to consider this plausible. In 2004, DNA profiling conducted at University of California, Davis showed the grape to be closely related to the Piedmont grape Freisa, and to be a genetic cousin of Nebbiolo. Source: www.wikiapedia.net adding yet another potential chapter in its history.
Today, Viognier is grown all over the world and is best suited to regions with plenty of sun and cooler nights and close to a body of water- to maintain its natural acidity. All the rest is influenced by where it’s grown, when its picked and the choice to oak or not to oak-distinguishing the two main styles. Oak gives it a richer creamier mouthfeel with spices and vanilla in the mix, no oak enhances the floral tropical aspects of both the nose and the palate. It also requires a longer warmer growing season to ripen fully and with traditionally lower yields it can be a challenge.
In France, it is the only white grape permitted to be used for Condrieu (Rhône Valley) wines where it is produced as a single varietal or added into Syrah, to add a more floral aromatic to the wine and to stabilize the color. It is also made into a dessert wine here with a unique way of ‘picking’ the over ripe grapes known as à l’assiette- a plate is held under the vines which are then shaken allowing them to fall onto the plate and collected. This is a common method used in South Australia for olives using a sheet!
Three classic examples from France, Australia and California …
“La Combe Pilate (pronounced “La kohm pē-lot”) is 100% Viognier from a hillside vineyard on Michel Chapoutier’s property where Michel pushes the boundaries on the biodynamic concept with his experimental range called “The Alchemy Wines”. The symbol on La Combe Pilate’s label is the alchemic symbol for spirit and is inked to Chapoutier’s biodynamic philosophy – to respect and transform the raw material into a high-quality product while showcasing the spirit of the land.” Source: www.terlato-mchapoutier.com
This is crisp and fresh with a deceptively generous mouthfeel creating some tension giving way to instant appeal. The nose is all Viognier and delicately framed with citrus, peach and subtle floral notes are enticing, to say the least. The palate is all citrus and peach and subtle secondary notes of almond, spices, apricot and white stone fruits with wonderful balance and acidity. This really is an impressive wine and worthy of any dinner table. Winemaker suggests pairing it with Sautéed prawn brochettes with spices, trout tartare with crispy vegetables (radishes, carrots, cucumbers) and tapas of sautéed squid with green olive tapenade. WS – 91pt.
Yalumba Eden Valley Viognier 2017- Australia
From the first sip this is an immediately impressive wine. It’s part of the new Samuel’s Collection of wines dedicated to Samuel Smith, the original owned and founder of Yalumba 170 years ago. This wine is a culmination of his dream celebrating his spirit of provenance, working the land and being a good steward for future generations. Once you taste this you’ll agree, Thank you Samuel Smith!
An enticing combination of fresh apricot, ginger and white flowers beg you to take a sip. The creaminess on the palate is the first thing you notice but it’s the rich depth and complexity that will cause you to want to savor the moment. The palate is long and rich and an almost seamless blend of stone fruits, honey flavors with just a hint of orange and spices on the finish. Impressive freshness and complexity now but give it a few years and wow! Be ready to have your patience rewarded. Decanter- 95pt.
Vina Robles Viognier 2018- California.
Sourced from their Huerhuero Vineyard planted at the highest point on the Estate- warm during the day and cooled by Pacific breezes in the afternoon. Ideal growing conditions for Viognier and only seeing stainless steel, this is a really nice varietally correct example from Paso Robles and rounding out our Viognier travels around the world. Throw in Certified Sustainable and all Estate grown fruit and you have a total package.
Fresh clean nose of floral and tropical fruits is a delightful prelude to mouthfuls peach, tangerine peel, citrus with secondary notes of ginger, honey and almond on a long finish. Like the other examples, this has a lively freshness and focused balance. Definitely one to pour at the party this summer. Intended to be drunk fresh in the first few years. Because of the aromatic nose and the beautiful balance, this is ideally paired with spicy foods such as Thai or Sichuan (Northern China) dishes.
After tasting the current vintages, I have to say that they display wonderful elegance and restraint with impressive balance, reflecting the regional characteristics whilst raising the bar from previous vintages. Congratulations Virginia on an amazing job!
Filius Chardonnay 2017 – Elegant with impressive balance. Lovely bright nose with layers of apple and citrus and pineapple to entice you to take a sip. Interesting creamy mouthfeel with exceptional balance that seems more in character with a French white burgundy. Your palate is greeted with citrus and white stone fruits with secondary layers of ginger, spices, vanilla and a nutty note with loads of depth and complexity.
Dare I say I like it more than the 2016 vintage that was listed last year in the ROBB Report as one of 12 wines you must try this year. Ridiculous value! Screams for Crab or Lobster with a rich butter sauce. Wine Spectator- 92 pts.
Margaret River Chardonnay 2016- this is an impressive Chardonnay!
The nose in immediately appealing with layers of rich lemon, apple with grapefruit and spices rounding things out. Don’t rush your first sip, savor the anticipation. I was immediately impressed at how rich and balanced this wine is, it is continually evolving from previous vintages. Like the Filius, it is very French in nature but way more refined and elegant and I like this more than the 2015 vintage. Rich creamy mouthfeel is balanced by wonderful acidity and intensity. Almost seamless layers of apples, white stone fruits, grapefruit with ginger, spices and almonds adding complexity into the mix. This will cellar out to 2027 and beyond. Rating: 95 pt. James Halliday.
Heytesbury Chardonnay 2017
This wine has consistently been one of Australian’s best Chardonnays and has been considered by many to be Grand Cru standard. On a personal note it’s definitely in my top 2 or 3 favorites. It never disappoints. Texture is rarely mentioned when being described except in vague notions of mouthfeel- in this case it’s both comfortable and inviting and adds yet another reason to enjoy this wine.
Class and elegance are presented in all their glory starting with the enticing nose of grapefruit, white stone fruits with subtle floral and spices to round things out. It’s the palate where it gets really interesting. Seamless layers of peach and apple with secondary notes of roasted cashew and spices and wonderful balance and acidity. This is all wrapped in such finesse and focus with surprising creaminess that it’s hard to imagine how this could get better. Impressive to say the least. This will cellar out to 2025 and beyond without a problem. Multiple ratings: 97 pts
Filius Cabernet 2016 – Drink this anytime. First sniff makes you smile and wonder why this isn’t double the price. There is so much going on with this wine. Nose is dominated by bright, dark fruits with herbs, spices and earthy cedar notes rounding it out. Mouthfeel is convincing and showcases what is right about Margaret River wines and Vasse Felix in particular.
Listed as Cabernet, it has a healthy dash of Estate grown Malbec- 14% that gives it a juicy inviting attitude with some savory notes and cooking spices spliced into layers of blackberries and black current with blueberries, dark cherries and cedar framed in fine grained tannins. This will pair well with Lamb or steak strips. If patience is your middle name cellar some and enjoy over the next 10 years. Wine Spectator– 92 pts.
Margaret River Cabernet 2015- Exceptional example of Margaret River Cabernet!
This vintage has all the impressive character without the bulky weight of previous vintages. This is a leaner more focused version revealing ample restraint and elegance and I think, better for it. Nose is enticing issuing a confident invitation to drink and enjoy with dark fruits dominating the nose but it is the interesting nuisances of bay leaf, olives and spices that make this wine so captivating.
The impressive mouthfeel and texture may catch you off guard for a second but the layers of black current, cassis, dark chocolate, fruit cake notes with savory herbs and spices playing a supportive role will confirm that everything your imagining your tasting, you are! Wonderful length in the finish. Cellar out to 2035 and beyond.
Rating: 95 pt Campbell Mattinson, James Halliday, James Suckling & Toni Paterson.
Tom Cullity Cabernet 2014.
There is so much going on with this wine and a thousand superlatives come to mind … Restraint and elegance with superb structure, power and balance is immediately evident- this blend of 80% Cabernet, 16% Malbec and 4% Petite Verdot gives you some insight into just how impressive this wine is but it really is only a frame work and an invitation to delve deeper.
The nose is most definitely enticing and pausing to enjoy the layers of dark fruits, plums and interesting savory/earthy notes only heighten the anticipation of your first sip. The palate displays black currents, dark cherries and a host of dark and red fruits playing a supportive role. Buried deep are bay leaves, olives, earthy cedar and spices that only add to the overall complexity and enjoyment with exceptional length on the finish.
You get the sense that it not trying to impress, it complete and comfortable in its current state although this wine will age beautifully and patience will be rewarded over the next 20 – 30 years. Multiple ratings 97 – 98 pt Campbell Mattinson, Ray Jordan.
The winery was the first in the Margaret River region and was established by Dr Tom Cullity who spent a number of years searching for the perfect site for his vineyard. There is no documented evidence of Tom reading Dr Gladstones report in 1965 but needly to say both men were definitely “ahead of the game”.
Being almost identical to Boardauex the focus was always going to be Cabernet, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Chardonnay. Vasse Felix has grown from an 8 acre site in the Wilyabrup region to 4 separate sites specifically choosen for there “terrior” or regional characteristics. See map above.
What makes this region so special is it is the meeting place for two oceans and a mixture of temperatures and winds. The name came from a Frenchmen (Vasse) who’s job was to map the West Australian coastline who “survived” a shipwreck off the coast of Margaret River and Felix from the Latin meaning happy or joyous.
Virginia Willcock, chief winemaker has a long and impressive history, more recently picking up no less than 10 awards in 2010, Winemaker of the Year in Australia in 2013 and a string of awards in 2014 … going from strength to strength. Wine Enthusiast also voted Vasse Felix Winery New World Winery of the Year in 2018. Putting all that aside, the wines speak to her reputation, integrity and passion.
Just a brief overview about the wines, Cabernet and Chardonnay have always been the main focus and three tiers of both are augmented by a Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon, a Shiraz and a Cabernet/Merlot. The last three are not available in the US.
On a personal note …
Dinner with Vasse Felix Winemaker- Virginia Willcock.
As can be seen by the photo below I had an absolutely awesome evening in Chicago a couple of years ago. Dinner with Virginia Willcock, winemaker extraordinaire at Vasse Felix, Abbe Davidson from Negiotant, USA and my wonderful wife, Delores Ryan … at Cherry Circle Room. Shared some amazing wines and finished off with Virginia’s Heytesbury Chardonnay 2015 (97pt rating) and Tom Cullity Cabernet 2013 (99pt rating).
Vine to Table 