I was fortunate enough this last week to taste the 2012 vintage of this wine and remembered back to tasting it in 2015, too young to appreciate all of the future potentials of this Bordeaux-inspired blend of 66% Carmenère, 19% Merlot, and 15% Cabernet but tasty never the less . Organically farmed I might add.
Brought to you by the Lapostelle family and sourced from vines planted in the 1920s- almost 100 years old. This is an in-house affair which means it’s all Single Estate grown fruit, bottled at the winery. 100% hand-picked and de-stemmed onsite at the winery with 5 weeks of skin contact before 24 months of barrel aging in French Oak. Expressive fruits on the nose with a potpourri of red, black, and blue fruits with a hint of black pepper. Still got it but with just a hint of aging revealing its age.
Fruit is still bright on the palate with blackberries, plums, red cherries, spices, and blueberries evident. This still has plenty of body and structure and if cellared correctly, this should go another 3 – 5 years without an issue. For those of you that don’t like aged wines, drink now, it’s delicious drinking. If you come across a bottle of this in a wine store, it’s worth buying. Should be priced around $125 or so.
Upon its initial release in 1998 (then the 1995 vintage) it was presented to the world as the “White Grange” making the front page of Australia’s national newspapers. A first to this day.
“Yattarna reflects Penfolds patience and continued commitment to its original goal, its very name being drawn from the local indigenous language, meaning ‘little by little, gradually’. Each vintage provides the opportunity to further raise the quality bar”.
Source: Penfolds Website.
Sourced from only the best grapes Tasmania 57%, Tumbarumba 32% and Adelaide Hills 11% have to offer, it has achieved the Penfolds winemaker’s ambitious goal of producing an ultra-fine cool climate Chardonnay that will impress even the most fastidious wine drinkers.
The nose has so much going on, so complex and incredibly inviting. Layers of various citrus, white peach, and gunflint dominate but secondary layers of tangerine peel, and cashews with a whole lot of promise of what’s to come.
The palate exhibits exceptional balance with everything in its place. I get the impression from the first sip that it’s all intentional, with layers of nectarine/tangerine, orange peel, lemon, white peach, gunflint, saline, and apricot with a hint of creaminess and a sensual, velvety mouthfeel without sacrificing acidity. There is a tension with this wine that adds an extra dimension coupled with minerality, exceptional integration and texture, and a very long finish making this a winner.
This wine scores consistently high ratings with the 2017 and 2018 receiving 99 pt and the 2019 and 2020 receiving 98 pt. reflecting its consistently high quality. Drinking well now but will most definitely improve over the next 10 – 15 years. Exceptional Chardonnay with immense potential. I would choose wisely when pairing this. Lobster, crab, and scallops would top the list but lighter chicken dishes would also work well.
I believe this style of Chardonnay stands head and shoulders above the rest. The Vasse Felix Heytesbury 2018 (98 pt) is the only other Australian Chardonnay that gives this a run for its money. Both admirably represent the ‘elegant, restrained Chardonnay with finesse’ category that showcases the new style and standard of Chardonnay coming out of Australia. Please excuse me for adding a wrong vintage photo- cannot locate my 2018 photo. Just for the record, they look identical.
Just got through reading an article with the above title from Wine Searcher and was surprised to find that there were some revelations and surprises I wasn’t expecting. Namely, three of the top four Pinots on their top 10 list were Australian.
Finally, the world is catching up to what is considered common knowledge in Australia. The only bad news is that Australian Pinots are difficult to get in the US- check Wine Searcher for retailers. Just for the record, here is the Wine Searcher Top 10:
The World’s Best Pinot Noir (excl. Burgundy) on Wine-Searcher:
Kelley Fox Wines Maresh Vineyard Star of Bethlehem Flower Block
94
$75
Ata Rangi Pinot Noir
93
$66
“Despite its deep history, the world is only just discovering Tasmanian Pinot Noir”– Source: Dalrymple Website.
Where to Look in Australia.
There are so many great cool climate regions in Australia that produce exceptional Pinots. Let’s not forget Antarctica is just south of Australia.
Victoria’s Port Phillip area encompassing Geelong, Macedon Ranges, Sunbury, Yarra Valley, and of course, Mornington Peninsula is widely considered the epicenter of Australian Pinot Noir. Adelaide Hills and the tiny amounts of exceptional Pinot that come out of Tasmania should also be given serious consideration.
The majority of Australian Pinots available in the US come from Victoria as a whole. Below is a short but distinguished list of what’s relatively available in the Midwest.
Dalrymple Winery- Tasmania.
The winery was established by Bertel and Anne Sundstrup in 1987, on sloping hills overlooking the Bass Strait producing 4 Single Site Pinots and, a Cuvee- only one available in the US – see photo. The property was purchased in 2007 by the Hill-Smith family to continue the vision and legacy led by Peter Caldwell.
“Pinot Noir has always been my passion – the most difficult grape to grow, the most difficult wine to make well. The most satisfying of victories.” Peter Caldwell – Vigneron. Source: Winery Website.
Footnote: The Hill-Smith Family also owns Jansz Winery which produces an N/V Sparkling Rose made from Pinot and Chardonnay which is an absolute delight to drink and share with friends.
Giant Steps Yarra Valley Pinot Noir Cuvee.
Giant Steps Winery focuses on single vineyard Chardonnays and Pinot’s with 5 different sites nearby but all individual and different. Their Applejack Vineyard Pinot 2020 vintage was ranked #1 wine in Wine Enthusiast’s Top 100 list and their 2020 Yarra Pinot (a blend of all 5 vineyards) was ranked #18 in Wine Spectator’s Top 100 Wines.
The Cuvee is the only one available in the US at the moment and is reasonably priced but expect price increases moving into 2023, unfortunately.
Moorooduc Estate- Mornington Peninsula, Victoria.
Established in 1982 by Richard and Jill McIntyre, Moorooduc Estate is a small, family-run winery business that has a reputation for complex and food-friendly wines.
Their philosophy is to make the best wines possible with the best grapes available, hands-on care with minimal intervention allowing the wine to develop and speak for itself. Their wine is produced in a brand-new facility using traditional Burgundian techniques and one sip and you’ll agree, all the care and attention are worth it.
When a third-generation commitment to a vision and legacy collides with a great vintage head on, you get a wine that is only released on vintages deemed worthy in miniscule amounts. May I introduce Taylors ‘Exceptional Parcel Release’ Cabernet Sauvignon.
Wakefield Wines- Clare Valley.
Is actually Taylors Winery was originally established in 1969 by Bill Taylor who was a Pub owner and Wine Merchant in Sydney who sold what could have been the first ‘private label’ in Australia- Chateau Clare. Their association with the Clare Valley Co-operative to produce the Chateau Clare wine dates back to the 1950s exhibiting great insight into the potential of the region before it was ‘known’ despite having a history dating back to the 1860s. Today the winery and wine-making responsibilities lay squarely with third-generation Mitchell Taylor (along with his three brothers) who continues his father and grandfather’s vision and respect for the land, the soil, and the grapes.
A Note About the Region.
Both the region and the winery have a reputation for making elegant restrained wines that will cellar out decades helped along by a perfect Mediterranean climate and ideal soil and rainfall. Riesling and later Shiraz and Cabernet were the early stars but plantings of Malbec, Pinot Grigio Chardonnay, Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Tempranillo, and Grenache have been making their presence known over the past 20 years or so. The region sits between 1,300 and 1,600 feet in altitude with warm days and cool nights. Looking over the region with vineyards spread across the landscape, it’s hard to believe it was an ocean bed in the distant past. When I first visited South Australia in 1986 my host asked me the first morning there what would you like to do and I responded immediately ‘Clare Valley to taste some wine’.
Regarding vintages, Clare Valley has had 5 consecutive vintages of great to excellent quality starting with 2015 through 2019.
Wakefield ‘The Visionary’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
The wine was dedicated to Bill Taylor who was most definitely a visionary. In 1969 he purchased 178 acres and planted Riesling and more importantly Cabernet when the predominant ‘Wine’ coming out of the area was Port. He has a vision that Clare Valley would one day be recognized as a great red wine-producing region, and not just for Riesling.
This wine is only released on vintages deemed worthy and is produced in minuscule amounts so having two vintage releases in a row is a reflection on the quality of the wine and the region as a whole.
The nose is opulent and enticing showcasing beautiful floral notes, and a hint of eucalyptus with plums, dark fruits, and chocolate dominating the nose, like 2014, this is textbook classic Clare Valley Cabernet, just taken to the next level.
The palate is silky smooth that coats your mouth with layers of blackberries, plums raspberries with a dusting of cocoa and spices, and a hint of sweet tobacco and pencil shavings. Impressive balance and structure, fine-grained tannins, with restraint, elegance, and sophistication on display. Despite having a combined time of seven years in barrels and bottle, you would do well to decant this for 3 – 4 hours, Will cellar out to 2035 without a problem.
Pair with any red meat dishes, just be careful choosing, this is an exquisite wine and should be treated with the respect it deserves.
Another great example of an Italian wine made from grapes varietals not native to Italy. This is a blend of 60% Merlot, 20% Cabernet, 15% Cab Franc, and 5% Petite Verdot sourced from the Bolgheri DOC on the western edge of Tuscany boarding the sea. This region was a hidden gem until the 1990’s when the wine started getting recognized for exceptional quality driven by clay and sandy soils, ocean breezes, and centuries of winemaking know-how. If you’re expecting a blockbuster right-bank Bordeaux blend from Napa, think again. This displays all the restraint and elegance one would come to expect from these varietals and this terroir.
The nose is enticing from the outset with layers of red fruits, cooking herbs and spices, and a subtly earthy note that invites you to take a sip. The palate is velvet smooth and inviting showcasing delicate red fruits with depth and complexity that goes way beyond its price point. Secondary layers of dark fruits include blackberries, blueberries, and plums, Italian cooking herbs and spices, vanilla from the oak, and a hint of chocolate on a long silky finish making this a complete package. In short, this is an absolute delight to drink. Cellar to 2030. Ideal pairing includes light red and chicken dishes. I enjoyed it with a mushroom and Italian herbs Pizza.
Great wines at great prices and it is my pleasure to introduce you to …
Los Vascos Cromas Wines – Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite)
Yes, you read correctly, Baron de Rothschild (Lafite) Chateau in Bordeaux purchased these vineyards in 1988 and introduced Centuries-old winemaking experience into Chile. The name ‘Los Vascos’ comes from “Les Basques” and refers to the origins of the former owners who planted the first vines in around 1750 in Bordeaux. They are also the first French Wine Producers to expand into Chile.
Tasting these new vintages reminds me of my visit to Chile 22 years ago, and drinking some great wines and of course Pisco.
Los Vascos Cromas Cab Franc Grand Reserva 2019
Leaning towards an Old-World Cab Franc in style- not surprising given who is behind the winery. Violets dominate the nose with swirling layers of blackberries, cherries, herbs, and sweet tobacco. The palate is focused and welcoming with layers of blackberries and dark cherries with a potpourri of cooking herbs, bell pepper, plum, and a nice earthy note to round things out. Tannins are evident and supple without intruding. Nice lively attitude and is a pleasure to drink. This is a credit to all involved in establishing a benchmark for the future.
Los Vascos Cromas Syrah Grand Reserva 2019
If you’re interested in finding out what Syrah / Shiraz tastes like from somewhere other than Hermitage, California, or Australia, this is the one you’ve been looking for. Great body and structure with excellent balance between fruit, tannins, and acidity and great drinking making this a really pleasant surprise.
A captivating nose that encompasses violets, dark fruits, plums, sweet tobacco, and spices. The palate exudes balance, restraint, texture, and an expressive character with layers of blackberries, plums, and figs dominating with secondary layers of dark raspberries, red currents, sweet tobacco, and just a hint of dark chocolate and cedar box on the finish. This is drinking well now with an hour or so’s decanting to discover the wine’s best side but I can’t help thinking this will cellar out until 2030 with rewards for the patient.
This Grande Reserva Carmenére is another one of their ‘entry level’ wines but is anything but entry-level scoring 90 pt plus over several vintages.
This is one of the best Carmenére I’ve tried and most definitely the best in the under $40 price point. Interesting notes of blackberries, red fruits, and plums feature on this enticing nose. The palate is dominated by dark cherry with a hint of plum, smokey notes, and spices with subtly earthy and dark chocolate notes finishing things off. Should be enjoyed young so I would drink this over the next five years. Will pair well with Chicken and lighter red meat dishes as well as Pasta and Pizza.
Before you say anything, I know winter is closing in and it’s cold outside but this really is an awesome wine. It’s just arrived this week and one sip and I couldn’t say no! I’m sure you’ll agree.
Brought to you by Jean Luc Colombo, his wife Anne, and their daughter Laure, now head winemaker sourcing fruit from their three certified organic vineyards in Cote du Rhone and the Languedoc-Roussillon region. This wine will pair ideally with Stir fry Thai Chicken, Sushi, Crab or Lobster Cakes, lighter seafood-based salads, and Turkey.
This is a crisp clean wine that is an absolute pleasure to drink. From the second this hits the glass delightful aromas of wildflowers and peach alert you to the fact this is a Viognier heightening your anticipation. One sip and you’ll be impressed with the crisp clean mouthfeel with elegance and balance that entices you to take another sip and experience wild white flowers, ripe peach, and tropical fruits with just a hint of sweetness.
and a big bold Red Blend to consider …
Brassfield Eruption Red Blend 2019
Make no mistake, this is a big, bold, rich, plum-juicy wine sourced from vineyards located in the western section of the High Valley Appellation (around 2,000 feet in elevation) known as High Serenity Ranch northwest of Sacramento, east of Clear Lake. Despite being a ‘Proprietary Blend’, which means they don’t want to tell you, I have it on good authority it is a blend of Malbec, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Grenache, and Zinfandel.
High Serenity Ranch was a former Cattle Ranch until around 1973 when Jerry Brassfield purchased 1,600 acres of the original ranch. Realizing the potential of the region he has continued to acquire land with Brassfield Winery being established in 1998 and has gone from strength to strength including, now vineyards, around Round Mountain Volcano producing excellent wines from the uniquely volcanic soils. In dedication to the fertile ground, it came from, this wine found its name.
Rich fruit-driven aromas of blackberry, dark cherry, plums, caramel, chocolate, and spices. The palate has a great mouthfeel showcasing the rich vibrant character of this blend than draws down on every grape varietal utilized. Blackberries, cherries, plums, and chocolate dominate with secondary notes of vanilla, caramel, and baking spices that linger on a long finish. Pair with red meats and BBQ all day long. Will cellar out to 2027 without a problem. I should also mention it is a whopping 15.5% so handle it with care or Uber home! If you’re an Orin Swift fan, this is definitely the wine for you.
GOLD MEDAL – 2022 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition
Question of the day: Is it even possible to get an elegant Italian Beauty that over delivers, rated 99pt from an excellent vintage for under $100? How about $65. Allow me to introduce you to …
Castiglion Del Bosco Brunello Di Montalcino 2016.
This 100% Sangiovese is sourced from the 42 hectare Capanna vineyard facing the Mediterranean with cool afternoon breezes is a delight to drink and most definitely overdelivers.
Enticing aromas of red cherries, raspberries, floral notes of violets and lavender, spices and an earthy note to round things out. The palate is inviting with grippy tannins and attitude delivering ripe red cherries, raspberries and plum with secondary notes of savory spices and herbs reminiscent of an Italian kitchen. Beautiful balance and elegance with an exceptionally long finish. I decanted for 4 hours which gave it enough time to reveal itself, which I returned to the bottle for the following day- was event better.
Definitely needs a hearty meat, game or chicken dish- lasagna or a deep-dish Chicago style pizza would also work well. This Italian Beauty will cellar out 15 plus years.
Batasiolo Langhe Nebbiolo 2017
If you’re not be familiar with the Nebbiolo grape you may know it under its ‘regional’ names of Barolo and Barbaresco, both of which must be 100% Nebbiolo.
The Dogliani Family have been in the wine business in Langhe for three generations but the real story begins in 1978 when the brothers purchased the ancient Kiola Winery including several Cru vineyards. These Cru’s include Cerequio, Bussia Bonfia, Boscareto, Brunate and Briccolina and are widely recognized as some of these best sites in the Langhe region producing wines of elegance, depth and complexity.
It was ‘renamed’ Beni (meaning Estate) di Batasiolo to reflect the tradition and the inseparable relationship between the vineyard’s, the farmsteads and the people that live and work the land framed by beautiful rolling hills and rows and rows of picturesque vines.
Characterized by high tannins and acidity it makes a perfect accompaniment to Stews, Game including Turkey, Red Meat Pastas and Pizzas, Risotto, especially with mushrooms or truffles.
“In Piedmont, a beloved standard is the egg-yolk-rich pasta tajarin* with white truffles shaved on top”.www.foodandwine.com
Aromas of red cherries, red currents, rose petal, orange peel and truffles pour out of the glass. After a few hours of decanting mouthfeel is lively but inviting coating your mouth with an assortment of red fruits, freshly picked truffles with an earthy note. Wonderful balance with a long finish but I’ll let you discover that for yourself.
Will cellar out for 10 – 15 years without a concern, if you can wait that long.
*Piedmontese dialect for Tagliolini or Tagliarini- it is the thinnest and richest of all pastas. It resembles spaghetti in looks but is considered far superior.
Le Orme Barbara D’Asti 2020 – Works Well with Turkey!
This medium bodied DOGC Certified 100% Barbara comes from the Langhe-Roero and Monferrato Regions in Piedmont in North Western Italy. This area was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2014.
Two things you should keep in mind, meal time and this wine go hand in hand- see below for pairing ideas and second, it will soften and improve over the next 5 years of cellaring. Wine was fermented in Stainless steel and then aged in the bottle for 16 months before release so you won’t find any vanilla oaky characteristics in this wine.
The nose is all bright cherries, raspberries, brambles and spices. The palate showcases nice balance and structure dominated by cherries, raspberries with cooking spices and plum to round things out. Nice length on the finish.
Perfect to drink with Red Meat Stews, Ham and Salami, Pizza, Pasta, Roasted and Grilled Meats and light enough for game and white meat stews or just about anything with a tomato-based sauce. Don’t forget a crusty loaf with some hard cheeses- no self-respecting Italian meal would be served without, except maybe Pizza.
Pewsey Vale Winery are considered on the cutting edge of high-end Rieslings. Both are single vineyard, estate grown wines that are sourced from arguably the best location in Eden Valley gaining Organic certification in 2013.
The site was originally planted in 1839 and was taken over in 1961 by Wyndham Hill-Smith who immediately rebirthed the site using propagated vines from the original 1847 plantings. One vineyard. One variety. One vision: creating the most awarded and loved Rieslings in Australia.
It would be fair to say producing Riesling is an obsession for them and have turned making Riesling into an artform with exceptional success.
Both these Rieslings are bone dry and can be cellared with further rewards. Both are highly allocated and highly rated. Four great reasons to add them to your cellar.
The Contours Museum Reserve Riesling 2015
Intense aromas of lemon and white flowers emerge from the glass that give you a hint of things to come. The palate shouts complexity and elegance with layers of Roses lime marmalade, lemon peel and honeysuckle, beeswax with a buttery almost creamy mouthfeel balanced with a soft focused acidity and a lively refreshing finish. If you want to experience what Riesling should taste like, this is the one to try. An absolute delight to drink. Pair with crab, lobster with buttery/garlic sauce, whitefish, chicken or tofu Pad Thai and Duck with five spices glaze. Expect further improve with 10 years cellaring.
The Contours Museum Release Riesling 2012
Let me start by saying that the 2012 Vintage was one of the best on record. Obviously similar to the 2015 but with more depth and complexity- how much of that is additional ageing or a better vintage is hard to judge. Enticing aromas of lime and lemon underpinned with a toasty note. The palate has so much going on, with the additional aging showing more intense flavors of Bickford’s lime juice, lemon peel, beeswax, sage oil laid over almond, honey and crushed stone minerality. Lively acidity, exceptional balance and a surprising richness with a long finish.
Winemaker recommends pairing with seared scallops and butter sauce or smoky cauliflower soup. See above pairings. I would expect further improvement over the next 5 – 10 years. Most definitely an absolute delight to drink.
A legacy founded in 1847 with a focus on sustainability allowing nature to take the lead pretty much sums up Yalumba. Samuel Smith, a British brewer started the legacy and 6 generations later it has achieved accolades and respect across the planet.
The Menzies Estate comprises of 8 individual and unique vineyards, all offering / contributing different characteristics to this impressive wine. The vineyards are almost all Cabernet with some Merlot and Malbec planted. Coonawarra is considered one of the finest sites in the world to grow Cabernet and this has all the hallmarks of what the region can produce.
Virgilius Viognier 2019- one of the best I’ve tasted.
Swirling the glass will give you the sense of aroma of floral fields, ginger, honey and apricots. All working together to entice you to take a sip. Take your time, enjoy the heady aromas before diving in. The first thing you’ll notice about the palate is the rich smooth mouthfeel and deceptively impressive texture balanced with silky acidity. There is depth and complexity with ample finesse to go round. You are greeted with almost seamless layers ginger, honey, apricots and a delightful nutty note towards the finish.
All the hallmarks of a classic Viognier that stands head and shoulders above the rest- it doesn’t get much better than this- one of the best I’ve tasted.
Pair with most seafood, lobster and crab dishes and don’t be afraid to throw something creamy into the mix. Stir fried Asian prawns and chicken dishes will also work well.
Yalumba ‘Tri Centenary’ Grenache 2018- Perfect for Thanksgiving!
This majestic wine is sourced from some of the oldest Grenache vines in the world, planted in 1889 and imposes elegance and finesse on the drinker from the very beginning. This really is a classic wine and a pleasure to drink. From its almost translucent satin red color that shimmers to the enticing aromatics of raspberry, red currents and cherries, this delivers a special experience.
The palate is focused with a silky-smooth mouthfeel and impressive texture showcasing red fruits of raspberries, cherries, red current and strawberries with a character all of its own with just a hint of sweetness. There is a brightness to it that makes it seductive with impressive balance and structure. Great length on the finish leaving you with a longing to have more. Pair with any game, with a red fruit wine reduction sauce, chicken, braised pork or lamb, stews, lighter Indian dishes and of course Turkey. Cellar out over the next 6 – 8 years.
Yalumba The Menzies Cabernet 2017 – Classic Coonawarra!
Aromas of mint, eucalyptus and menthol wrapped in dark and blue fruits come flooding out of the glass giving you a clue its Coonawarra Cabernet. The distinct eucalyptus note comes from the 100’s of Eucalyptus trees that border the vineyards of and in some cases, actually in between the rows of vines.
The palate showcases a clean crisp Cabernet, not over extracted, just focused on restraint and elegance. One sip with confirm its Coonawarra reflecting the bright red Terra Rossa soil underpinned by a layer of limestone. Your palate is welcomed by layers of Blueberries, Cassis, Olive Tapenade, Plum, Dark Chocolate and secondary notes of mint and subtle cooking herbs.
Solid tannins and wonderful balance leave you with a yearning to drink another glass. This is classic Coonawarra Cabernet and an absolute delight to drink.
Despite being 5 years old this wine will cellar another 20 years without a problem. Will need some decanting now, 2 – 3 hours should give this wine enough time to impress. Can’t wait to drink it in about 10 years, should be spectacular. Pair with your favorite red meat dish, just make sure its deserving of this wine.
Vine to Table 