Vine to Table

From the Cellar … Rhys Estate Vineyards

The driving force behind Rhys Estate is to make Pinots and Chardonnays that are unique and expressive of the chosen vineyard sites. All of the sites are selected for their distinctive soil and the growing climate spanning 6 different sites in the Santa Cruz Mountains region and 1 in Anderson Valley. Their Skyline Vineyard has the distinction of being the highest vineyard in California at an altitude of 2,360 ft.

All the grapes are vinified by blocks in small one-ton fermentation tanks and are crushed by feet instead of modern mechanical methods, utilizing natural yeasts for fermentation and French barrels for aging.

The result is a range of distinctive, unique wines that reflect their terroir and are an absolute delight to drink that stand up to cellaring with exceptional rewards.

Horseshoe Vineyard Chardonnay- 2012

Sourced from one of their Santa Crus Mountains Estates with an elevation of 1360′ to 1610′ planted on a base of sedimentary rock and volcanic ash intermingled with Limestone. Combine this with maritime influence- the Pacific Ocean to the west and the San Francisco Bay to the east and you have ideal growing conditions for Chardonnay.

The first thing to note is the lovely golden yellow color it’s developed- always a dead giveaway for an aged Chardonnay. The nose is still bright with layers of pear and apple and just a hint of citrus.

The palate is rich and creamy displaying excellent structure and balance. Apples, ripe pears, and citrus with a hint of creme-brulee/ caramel and oak on a long finish.

This is drinking so beautifully now I would have to say it’s close to its peak. If you are lucky enough to have a few bottles stored away I would be tempted to keep one until 2025, just to see how it develops further. If you’re intrigued and can find a bottle somewhere, expect to pay around $100 but it will be worth the experience. Hats off to a bottle of fine wine and its ability to cellar and impress after 10-plus years.

Bearwallow Vineyard Pinot Noir 2012

Sourced from their Anderson Valley Vineyard with an elevation of 300′ to 600′ planted on a layer of fractured shale, quartz, and sandstone and chosen for that very reason.

The nose is immediately impressive with layers of dark cherries, passionfruit, raspberries, coffee, and floral notes. A really pretty nose with a hint of spices and a promise of more to come.

The palate is smooth, inviting, and elegant with layers of dark fruits- dark cherries, raspberries, blackberries, and secondary notes of plum, violets, and spices. Impressive integration and balance with amazing depth and complexity.

If you do see this anywhere, buy it! You will not be disappointed- drinking beautifully now but I suspect this will be drinking even better over the next 5 years. Should retail for around $80 a bottle.

An Oakville Gem with a Bordeaux influence- Patria ‘Avoyelles’ Red Blend 2018

This is an impressive wine from the start, but it does need some time to open. I suggest 4 – 6 hours but then: spectacular. Big bold rich fruits hit the nose and the palate with elegance and finesse. This is a Bordeaux blend of 48% Cabernet Franc, 46% Cabernet Sauvignon and 6% Petit Verdot

When Tony Biagi, whom some of you know as Winemaker extraordinaire at Hourglass, wanted to lunch his dream winery he turned to longtime friend Kimberley Jones, to handle sales and marketing. Their partnership, I believe, has laid the groundwork for exceptional success in the future. Time will tell.

Lovely rich cherries, plums, spices, and an interesting note of mint/eucalyptus dominates the nose. The palate confirms what the nose promises, delivered with a full-bodied elegance one would expect from Oakville fruit and winemaker Tony Biagi at the helm. Layers of blackberries, blueberries, and red currents with secondary notes of tobacco, chocolate, and spices complete this seamless parcel of flavors with serious intention. Everything is where it should be with exceptional balance, complexity, and expressiveness. This ticks all the boxes, an absolute delight to drink.

Food pairings: choose your red meat dishes carefully, a Pot of Beef Bourguignon immediately came to mind. This is all Oakville but it has a French Bordeaux leaning.

This will cellar out 20 plus years but is drinking beautifully now with 4-6 hours decant time. Your patience will be rewarded, just needs a little planning on your part. If you want to drink this with dinner, decant it at noon and come back every hour, taste it, and rebottle when it’s to your liking. Then it’s ready to pour straight from the bottle or serve in a decanter if that’s your thing.

From the Cellar … Zenato Ripassa Valpolicella Superiore 2007

Ripassa and Ripasso’s are synonymous and are considered to be baby Amarone’s and about a third to half the price. Great news if you like the style but are budget focused. I’ve tried many different producers and many different vintages and when I found this in my cellar last week, I thought of the Moroccan Chicken recipe I have and thought I’d give it a try. The suggestion came from a MW friend who reached out to a Chef and MW friend of his in New York, for three vintages of Amarone I’ve been saving for a special occasion.

This is holding up so well given its 15-plus years old and sitting comfortably at the $25 point upon release. This is bigger and richer than I expected with all the hallmark notes of dark fruits, cherries, and raisins on the nose. The palate is velvety smooth delivering everything the nose promised with the addition of plum, powdered cocoa, and spices. Balance and structure are still evident with a long expressive finish. Drinking beautifully now and a clear testament to the wine’s cellaring potential. I still see a few years of drinking with this vintage. Scored a 92pt rating- WS, upon release and came in at #48 in their Top 100 wines in 2011.

This will pair with several dishes including Risotto with gorgonzola, grilled sausages and tomatoes, and rabbit casserole. I paired this with- Recipe pairing: https://www.themediterraneandish.com/moroccan-chicken-recipe/

I cooked this for the first time last weekend with a few variations: I don’t eat olives so I passed on those and I didn’t have dried apricots on hand so I substituted dried pineapples instead. It turned out exceptionally well but I will endeavor to have dried apricots on hand next time around.

I’m test-running this dish to perfect it so I can serve it later this summer with three aged vintages of Bertani Amarone which I think will be a closer, more refined pairing. My current photo is included.

From the Cellar … Coquerel Cabernet Franc Napa Valley 2013

January is a quiet month in the wine business so I’ve taken the opportunity to have some time off work, hence some ‘From the Cellar’ articles reflecting on the longevity/cellar ability of some wines.

WOOOW, this is holding up and drinking so well! If anyone has bottles in their cellar, I’d crack one open now, if you don’t and you’re lucky enough to find some, expect to pay around $40 or so. Still has another 5 plus years without hesitation but it’s delightful drinking now. Grapes were sourced from Coombsville AVA and barrel aged for 20 months in French Oak (25% new)

The nose is all dark fruits, with subtle notes of violets, cherries, and dark chocolate. The palate reflects what the nose promised with a velvety smooth mouthfeel with plenty of body and structure evident. The richness in the palate that was so evident in 2015 when I first tasted this wine is still very much present. Layers of dark cherries, plums, blackberries, and chocolate showcase the further aging potential, just a little more integrated and smoother on the palate. Impressive balance and a long finish.

This wine has only gotten better with age.

From the Cellar … Clos Apalta Limited Release 2012 Red Blend.

I was fortunate enough this last week to taste the 2012 vintage of this wine and remembered back to tasting it in 2015, too young to appreciate all of the future potentials of this Bordeaux-inspired blend of 66% Carmenère, 19% Merlot, and 15% Cabernet but tasty never the less . Organically farmed I might add.

Brought to you by the Lapostelle family and sourced from vines planted in the 1920s- almost 100 years old. This is an in-house affair which means it’s all Single Estate grown fruit, bottled at the winery. 100% hand-picked and de-stemmed onsite at the winery with 5 weeks of skin contact before 24 months of barrel aging in French Oak. Expressive fruits on the nose with a potpourri of red, black, and blue fruits with a hint of black pepper. Still got it but with just a hint of aging revealing its age.

Fruit is still bright on the palate with blackberries, plums, red cherries, spices, and blueberries evident. This still has plenty of body and structure and if cellared correctly, this should go another 3 – 5 years without an issue. For those of you that don’t like aged wines, drink now, it’s delicious drinking. If you come across a bottle of this in a wine store, it’s worth buying. Should be priced around $125 or so.

Penfolds Bin 144 Yattarna Chardonnay 2019- an exceptional Chardonnay of sophistication, elegance, and balance.

Upon its initial release in 1998 (then the 1995 vintage) it was presented to the world as the “White Grange” making the front page of Australia’s national newspapers. A first to this day.

“Yattarna reflects Penfolds patience and continued commitment to its original goal, its very name being drawn from the local indigenous language, meaning ‘little by little, gradually’. Each vintage provides the opportunity to further raise the quality bar”.
Source: Penfolds Website.

Sourced from only the best grapes Tasmania 57%, Tumbarumba 32% and Adelaide Hills 11% have to offer, it has achieved the Penfolds winemaker’s ambitious goal of producing an ultra-fine cool climate Chardonnay that will impress even the most fastidious wine drinkers.

The nose has so much going on, so complex and incredibly inviting. Layers of various citrus, white peach, and gunflint dominate but secondary layers of tangerine peel, and cashews with a whole lot of promise of what’s to come.

The palate exhibits exceptional balance with everything in its place. I get the impression from the first sip that it’s all intentional, with layers of nectarine/tangerine, orange peel, lemon, white peach, gunflint, saline, and apricot with a hint of creaminess and a sensual, velvety mouthfeel without sacrificing acidity. There is a tension with this wine that adds an extra dimension coupled with minerality, exceptional integration and texture, and a very long finish making this a winner.

This wine scores consistently high ratings with the 2017 and 2018 receiving 99 pt and the 2019 and 2020 receiving 98 pt. reflecting its consistently high quality. Drinking well now but will most definitely improve over the next 10 – 15 years. Exceptional Chardonnay with immense potential. I would choose wisely when pairing this. Lobster, crab, and scallops would top the list but lighter chicken dishes would also work well.

I believe this style of Chardonnay stands head and shoulders above the rest. The Vasse Felix Heytesbury 2018 (98 pt) is the only other Australian Chardonnay that gives this a run for its money. Both admirably represent the ‘elegant, restrained Chardonnay with finesse’ category that showcases the new style and standard of Chardonnay coming out of Australia. Please excuse me for adding a wrong vintage photo- cannot locate my 2018 photo. Just for the record, they look identical.

“The Best Pinot’s in the World”.

Just got through reading an article with the above title from Wine Searcher and was surprised to find that there were some revelations and surprises I wasn’t expecting. Namely, three of the top four Pinots on their top 10 list were Australian.

Finally, the world is catching up to what is considered common knowledge in Australia. The only bad news is that Australian Pinots are difficult to get in the US- check Wine Searcher for retailers. Just for the record, here is the Wine Searcher Top 10:

The World’s Best Pinot Noir (excl. Burgundy) on Wine-Searcher:

Wine Name	Score	Av. Price
Bass Phillip Reserve Pinot Noir	95	$752
Morlet Family Vineyards Joli Coeur Pinot Noir	95	$142
Main Ridge Estate ‘Half Acre’ Pinot Noir	94	$67
Domaine Epis ‘Epis’ Pinot Noir	94	$78
Occidental-Kistler Vineyards ‘SWK Vineyard Pinot Noir	94	$168
Girlan ‘Vigna Ganger’ Riserva Pinot Noir Alto Adige	94	$120
Beaux Freres The Upper Terrace Pinot Noir	94	$132
Kelley Fox Wines Maresh Vineyard Red Barn Block	94	$91
Kelley Fox Wines Maresh Vineyard Star of Bethlehem Flower Block	94	$75
Ata Rangi Pinot Noir	93	$66

“Despite its deep history, the world is only just discovering Tasmanian Pinot Noir”– Source: Dalrymple Website.

Where to Look in Australia.

There are so many great cool climate regions in Australia that produce exceptional Pinots. Let’s not forget Antarctica is just south of Australia.

Victoria’s Port Phillip area encompassing Geelong, Macedon Ranges, Sunbury, Yarra Valley, and of course, Mornington Peninsula is widely considered the epicenter of Australian Pinot Noir. Adelaide Hills and the tiny amounts of exceptional Pinot that come out of Tasmania should also be given serious consideration.

The majority of Australian Pinots available in the US come from Victoria as a whole. Below is a short but distinguished list of what’s relatively available in the Midwest.

Dalrymple Winery- Tasmania.

The winery was established by Bertel and Anne Sundstrup in 1987, on sloping hills overlooking the Bass Strait producing 4 Single Site Pinots and, a Cuvee- only one available in the US – see photo. The property was purchased in 2007 by the Hill-Smith family to continue the vision and legacy led by Peter Caldwell.

“Pinot Noir has always been my passion – the most difficult grape to grow, the most difficult wine to make well. The most satisfying of victories.” Peter Caldwell – Vigneron. Source: Winery Website.

Footnote: The Hill-Smith Family also owns Jansz Winery which produces an N/V Sparkling Rose made from Pinot and Chardonnay which is an absolute delight to drink and share with friends.

Giant Steps Yarra Valley Pinot Noir Cuvee.

Giant Steps Winery focuses on single vineyard Chardonnays and Pinot’s with 5 different sites nearby but all individual and different. Their Applejack Vineyard Pinot 2020 vintage was ranked #1 wine in Wine Enthusiast’s Top 100 list and their 2020 Yarra Pinot (a blend of all 5 vineyards) was ranked #18 in Wine Spectator’s Top 100 Wines.

The Cuvee is the only one available in the US at the moment and is reasonably priced but expect price increases moving into 2023, unfortunately.

Moorooduc Estate- Mornington Peninsula, Victoria.

Established in 1982 by Richard and Jill McIntyre, Moorooduc Estate is a small, family-run winery business that has a reputation for complex and food-friendly wines.

Their philosophy is to make the best wines possible with the best grapes available, hands-on care with minimal intervention allowing the wine to develop and speak for itself. Their wine is produced in a brand-new facility using traditional Burgundian techniques and one sip and you’ll agree, all the care and attention are worth it.

Wakefield ‘The Visionary’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2015

When a third-generation commitment to a vision and legacy collides with a great vintage head on, you get a wine that is only released on vintages deemed worthy in miniscule amounts. May I introduce Taylors ‘Exceptional Parcel Release’ Cabernet Sauvignon.

Wakefield Wines- Clare Valley.

Is actually Taylors Winery was originally established in 1969 by Bill Taylor who was a Pub owner and Wine Merchant in Sydney who sold what could have been the first ‘private label’ in Australia- Chateau Clare. Their association with the Clare Valley Co-operative to produce the Chateau Clare wine dates back to the 1950s exhibiting great insight into the potential of the region before it was ‘known’ despite having a history dating back to the 1860s. Today the winery and wine-making responsibilities lay squarely with third-generation Mitchell Taylor (along with his three brothers) who continues his father and grandfather’s vision and respect for the land, the soil, and the grapes.

A Note About the Region.

Both the region and the winery have a reputation for making elegant restrained wines that will cellar out decades helped along by a perfect Mediterranean climate and ideal soil and rainfall. Riesling and later Shiraz and Cabernet were the early stars but plantings of Malbec, Pinot Grigio Chardonnay, Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Tempranillo, and Grenache have been making their presence known over the past 20 years or so. The region sits between 1,300 and 1,600 feet in altitude with warm days and cool nights. Looking over the region with vineyards spread across the landscape, it’s hard to believe it was an ocean bed in the distant past. When I first visited South Australia in 1986 my host asked me the first morning there what would you like to do and I responded immediately ‘Clare Valley to taste some wine’.

Regarding vintages, Clare Valley has had 5 consecutive vintages of great to excellent quality starting with 2015 through 2019.

Wakefield ‘The Visionary’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2015

The wine was dedicated to Bill Taylor who was most definitely a visionary. In 1969 he purchased 178 acres and planted Riesling and more importantly Cabernet when the predominant ‘Wine’ coming out of the area was Port. He has a vision that Clare Valley would one day be recognized as a great red wine-producing region, and not just for Riesling.

This wine is only released on vintages deemed worthy and is produced in minuscule amounts so having two vintage releases in a row is a reflection on the quality of the wine and the region as a whole.

The nose is opulent and enticing showcasing beautiful floral notes, and a hint of eucalyptus with plums, dark fruits, and chocolate dominating the nose, like 2014, this is textbook classic Clare Valley Cabernet, just taken to the next level.

The palate is silky smooth that coats your mouth with layers of blackberries, plums raspberries with a dusting of cocoa and spices, and a hint of sweet tobacco and pencil shavings. Impressive balance and structure, fine-grained tannins, with restraint, elegance, and sophistication on display. Despite having a combined time of seven years in barrels and bottle, you would do well to decant this for 3 – 4 hours, Will cellar out to 2035 without a problem.

Pair with any red meat dishes, just be careful choosing, this is an exquisite wine and should be treated with the respect it deserves.

Campo al Mare Bolgheri Rosso 2020.

Another great example of an Italian wine made from grapes varietals not native to Italy. This is a blend of 60% Merlot, 20% Cabernet, 15% Cab Franc, and 5% Petite Verdot sourced from the Bolgheri DOC on the western edge of Tuscany boarding the sea. This region was a hidden gem until the 1990’s when the wine started getting recognized for exceptional quality driven by clay and sandy soils, ocean breezes, and centuries of winemaking know-how. If you’re expecting a blockbuster right-bank Bordeaux blend from Napa, think again. This displays all the restraint and elegance one would come to expect from these varietals and this terroir.

The nose is enticing from the outset with layers of red fruits, cooking herbs and spices, and a subtly earthy note that invites you to take a sip. The palate is velvet smooth and inviting showcasing delicate red fruits with depth and complexity that goes way beyond its price point. Secondary layers of dark fruits include blackberries, blueberries, and plums, Italian cooking herbs and spices, vanilla from the oak, and a hint of chocolate on a long silky finish making this a complete package. In short, this is an absolute delight to drink. Cellar to 2030. Ideal pairing includes light red and chicken dishes. I enjoyed it with a mushroom and Italian herbs Pizza.

Question of the Day: What do you get with hand-selected New World Vineyards, Centuries Old wine-making know-how, and a great vintage?

Great wines at great prices and it is my pleasure to introduce you to …

Los Vascos Cromas Wines – Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite)

Yes, you read correctly, Baron de Rothschild (Lafite) Chateau in Bordeaux purchased these vineyards in 1988 and introduced Centuries-old winemaking experience into Chile. The name ‘Los Vascos’ comes from “Les Basques” and refers to the origins of the former owners who planted the first vines in around 1750 in Bordeaux. They are also the first French Wine Producers to expand into Chile.

The vineyards have exceptional soil and their proximity to the coast (about 25 miles) and the terroir to potentially produce some exceptional wines, no doubt influencing the decision to acquire the property. They produce four excellent wines that over-deliver at their price points.

Tasting these new vintages reminds me of my visit to Chile 22 years ago, and drinking some great wines and of course Pisco.

Los Vascos Cromas Cab Franc Grand Reserva 2019

Leaning towards an Old-World Cab Franc in style- not surprising given who is behind the winery. Violets dominate the nose with swirling layers of blackberries, cherries, herbs, and sweet tobacco. The palate is focused and welcoming with layers of blackberries and dark cherries with a potpourri of cooking herbs, bell pepper, plum, and a nice earthy note to round things out. Tannins are evident and supple without intruding. Nice lively attitude and is a pleasure to drink. This is a credit to all involved in establishing a benchmark for the future.

Los Vascos Cromas Syrah Grand Reserva 2019

If you’re interested in finding out what Syrah / Shiraz tastes like from somewhere other than Hermitage, California, or Australia, this is the one you’ve been looking for. Great body and structure with excellent balance between fruit, tannins, and acidity and great drinking making this a really pleasant surprise.

A captivating nose that encompasses violets, dark fruits, plums, sweet tobacco, and spices. The palate exudes balance, restraint, texture, and an expressive character with layers of blackberries, plums, and figs dominating with secondary layers of dark raspberries, red currents, sweet tobacco, and just a hint of dark chocolate and cedar box on the finish. This is drinking well now with an hour or so’s decanting to discover the wine’s best side but I can’t help thinking this will cellar out until 2030 with rewards for the patient.

Los Vascos Cromas Gran Reserva Carmenére 2019

This Grande Reserva Carmenére is another one of their ‘entry level’ wines but is anything but entry-level scoring 90 pt plus over several vintages.

This is one of the best Carmenére I’ve tried and most definitely the best in the under $40 price point. Interesting notes of blackberries, red fruits, and plums feature on this enticing nose. The palate is dominated by dark cherry with a hint of plum, smokey notes, and spices with subtly earthy and dark chocolate notes finishing things off. Should be enjoyed young so I would drink this over the next five years. Will pair well with Chicken and lighter red meat dishes as well as Pasta and Pizza.