Marietta Cellars- California’s hidden secret, great family winery, great wine.

Not to be confused with Marietta Wine Cellars established in 2000 in Ohio. Marietta Cellars, located just outside of Geyserville in Sonoma County, and was founded in 1978 by Chris Bilbro and has been referred to as an American Success story with the simple aim of …

producing good honest wines at good honest prices and YES, they have succeeded. At that stage, they purchased all their grape but things change in 1990 but more about that later. Second generation son’s Jake and Scot have now taken over the reins and continue the family tradition. If you’re inspired to visit, think again, the family prefer to keep a low profile and for that reason, haven’t opened a tasting room preferring to focus on making the wine without distraction. Once you taste the wine’s I’m sure you’ll agree that this has been a successful strategy. They have also gone against the grain from day one by producing non-vintage wine, that is, wine blended from more than one specific vintage.

I was fortunate enough to meet Scot several years ago and after spending time with him and extracting as much information about his vineyards and wines it’s easy to understand why his wines are so good. There is a passion and commitment that is evident in everything he says and does.

Let’s step forward to 2015 and Vintage releases started to appear revealing an increased sophistication and quality but still at reasonable prices reflecting a central concept of Good Food, Good Friends and Good Wine (except the wine is far better than just ‘good’) Their wines are divided into three Series: The OVR Series, the Family Series and the Estate Series. Today they own vineyards in three distinct areas: Geyserville, purchased in 1990 from Viola Angeli whose family had lived there since 1886- 35 acres of river land and hillside terraced vineyards, McDowell- 270 acres of vineyard purchased in 2012 and Yorkville- 30 acres planted at 1400 ft. elevation, perched on a south-facing hillside purchased in 1999.

The Old Vine and Family Series.

OVR Series …

Note: The Rose and the Riesling are not available in the Indiana market but the Red Blend is with a designation of Lot Number 69 and no vintage listed.

Old Vine Red – N/V Current Release.

This is a blend of multi vineyards and multi vintages (2015, 2016 and 2017) comprising mainly Zinfandel, and, I suspect, as with some previous releases, a little Petite Sirah, and Carignane with small amounts of other varieties included for increased complexity which is evident. As you would expect this is a (somewhat) fruit forward, ripe, juicy wine. Enticing nose with mouthfuls of black fruits, blueberries with some pepper, spices and a hint earthiness rounding things out. This is, without a doubt one of the best Monday, Tuesday Wednesday wines you will ever come across and at under $15 a bottle it represents value plus! Buy a case and invite some friends over. Cellar to 2025 plus.

Family Series …

Román Estate Grown Zinfandel – 2016

This is a blend of predominately Zinfandel with a little Petite Sirah and Barbara added. The nose is enticing with sweet floral notes dominating, from the first sip that makes you smile and convinces you- rich, juicy and approachable with impressive depth and complexity was my first impression. Wonderful mouthfeel with red fruits with darker fruits lurking in the shadows racing across every part of your taste buds. All Estate Grown fruit ensures great fruit selection and quality control- seriously delicious and great value at around $20 a bottle? Cellar to 2027.

Rating: 91 points—Antonio Galloni, Vinous.

Christo ‘Rhone Style’ Red Blend 2015

“Our dad has a long history of honoring those he loves through wine. Now we’re able to do the same for him with a new blend in his favorite Rhone style. Christo, as Marietta called him, captures our father’s closeness to the earth, strength, enormity of heart, and unfailing gentleness”. Source: www.mariettacellars.com

I first tasted this 7 or 8 years ago and was suitably impressed and the current release is even better- the blend varies slightly with just a little more Grenache added. The 2015 vintage is a classic Rhone blend of Syrah- 64%, Grenache- 23%, Petite Sirah- 7% and Viognier- 6%.  Blueberries and red fruits dominate the nose complimenting subtle floral notes. Palate delivers big ripe, juicy black fruits, blueberries with notes of floral, chocolate and spice on the finish. This is a wine made with a purpose- to be drunk with friends and family and enjoyed over a meal. Full bodied with great structure and balance with 15.2% alcohol not at all evident. Again, pair with any red meats with a preference from the grill. Cellar to 2028.

Rating: 93 points —Antonio Galloni, Vinous.

Armé Cabernet Sauvignon 2015

This is named after Chris’s uncle Armé and is Marietta’s ‘Bordeaux style blend’ predominately Cabernet Sauvignon- 83% with some Merlot- 9%, Malbec- 6% and Petit Verdot- 2% added. This is a big heady wine displaying definite restraint and elegance with beautiful mouthfeel and texture.

Nose is heady and pulls you in with delicate floral notes soon over taken by current, cherry spices and subtle cedar. Palate features dark cherries with secondary notes of sage, spices and cedar. Beautiful balance and structure and definitely over deliver’s at price point (around $25.00). A delight to drink. Again, pair with just about any red meat, especially from the grill. Production is only 6,000 cases. Cellar to 2030.

Rating: 93 points —Antonio Galloni, Vinous.

The Estate Grown Series.

Estate Series …

Angeli Alexander Valley Zinfandel 2015 – 1,000 cases only.

First made in 1993 … “Having known our dad since he was a boy, Viola Angeli sold him the ranch where our winery now sits. Viola lived in her house until she passed away 14 years later. This wine honors her. Angeli Cuvée is a proprietary blend of Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Carignane, and a small amount of Syrah, made from our highest quality Sonoma County fruit.” Source: www.mariettacellars.com

A sweet seductive nose of dark fruits and spices with a promise of more to come. Lighter bodied than one would expect but don’t let that fool you, the palate is all Zinfandel with mouthfuls of delicious black berries, dark cherries and spices dominating with secondary notes of plum and red fruits on a long finish. Surprising elegance given the weight on the palate with impressive balance with not a hint of the 14.8% alcohol. Could do with some decanter time- 1 to 2 hours. Impressive wine, pair with red meats, especially from the grill and of course a few close friends. Cellar to 2030.

Game Trail Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 – 775 cases only.

Surprising soft and approachable given it’s a 2016 Yorkville Highlands Cabernet. Nose is all dark fruits and inviting but the boldness, body and structure is revealed in the first sip. Mouthfeel and texture are definitely friendly with loads blackberries, plums and black cherries with a savory quality intertwined with spices and sweet tobacco rounding things out. This Cabernet is restrained and elegant with pinpoint focus and impressive balance and an absolute delight to drink! Cellar out till 2030 and your patience will be rewarded.

94 points—Antonio Galloni, Vinous, Spring 2019

Gibson Block Syrah 2015 – 650 cases only.

This is considered the star in the Estate series and is sourced from the Gibson Block planted in the 1880’s. It is listed as a ‘field blend’ with some 100 plus year-old Grenache inclusive. One sniff of this wine and you know it’s going to readjust you’re thinking about California Syrah. This is a big bold wine with loads of attitude and I suspect personality. Nose is an intoxicating bouquet of blackberries, plums and spices. The palate reveals its true character- big, bold, balanced wine dominated by seductive dark fruits with so much more going on below the surface. Seductive in an elegant manner, not at all obvious with smatterings of class at the core of ever sip. This really is an absolute pleasure to drink. This wine makes up for all the sub-standard wines I taste in the course of my job and is the one we look forward to ‘discovering’, even if it is again. Did I mention the silky tannins and the almost endless finish? Cellar to 2030

95 points—Antonio Galloni, Vinous, Spring 2019

Some of the best value driven wines from Columbia Valley you will ever drink …

Butch and Jerry Milbrandt were fourth generation famers and made the transition from potatoes and apples when they relocated to Eastern Washington in 1997 and have since won numerous awards and a constant string of 90 plus pt. ratings.

The bottom line is these guys (along with Butch’s children Buck and Kerri) make some impressive wines at great prices. Some of the best Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday wines you will ever drink delivering all the quality, restraint and elegance the region, and the winery is known for.

Graphic used with permission of the Winery.

They were also instrumental in establishing two of the top AVAs in Washington State: Ancient Lakes in 2012 and Wahluke Slope in 2006, where I might add is where their vineyards are located. The Wahluke Slope vineyards are situated at 1,475 ft elevation with shallow soils and are particularly suited for their red’s wines while the Ancient Lakes vineyards are ideal for their white’s. Both areas share long sunny days and low rainfall during growing season.

Brothers’ Blend 2016

This is a blend of Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Malbec, Merlot and Tempranillo with all grape varietal contributing to the mix.

Nose is dominated by cherries, blueberries and subtle cooking herbs. Palate has a ‘too easy to drink’ appeal with blueberries, raspberries, cherries and plums all working to put a smile on your face. Body and structure are distinct without t00 much oak intrusion with subtle notes of vanilla and just a hint of dark cherry on a nice finish.

Merlot 2017

This is a wine that seems to get all the attention of the three- attracting a 91 pt. rating and a Top 100 placement with Wine Enthusiast. Delightful nose of cherries, cranberries and herbal notes. As with the Blend, palate is friendly and inviting and way too easy to drink- a wine you would be happy to pour for your friends, whenever that may be, given the current circumstances. Ripe soft cherries, blackberries and plums dominate with secondary notes of mocha, cooking herbs and vanilla on a long finish.

Cabernet Sauvignon 2017

This is a blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, and 1% Petit Verdot with an enticing nose of dark fruits, cherries and chocolate. The palate has impressive depth with layers of blackberry pie, dark cherries, plum and baking spices with obvious restraint and impressive length on the finish. A wine with attitude than you would be happy to serve your friends, whenever that might be … a cook out towards the end of summer, maybe. In the meantime, just enjoy it or your own or significant other.

From the Cellar …

How Long Can a Wine Age?

This topic may appear from time to time and is more to give an indication (through reviews) to the age-old question, “how long will a bottle of wine age for”? I get asked that a lot in the course of my day and the answer is of course not simple.

Over the course of my journey in the wine business, and before that as well (in another life) you somehow, through the experience of drinking hundreds of wines a year develop a 6th sense about a wine and its ability to age. You then add winemaker, vintage, region, weather etc. to the equation and all that stuff you take for granted hones that time frame down ever further.

There is of course another factor to add into the mix, do you like to drink wine that has been aged or younger and fresher. This will vary with grape varietal and point of origin and will be determined ultimately by personal choice honed by experience.This period of social distancing has given all of us a chance to hit the cellar and fine that bottle you have been keeping for ‘such an occasion’.    

Molly Dooker ‘Two Left Feet’ 2008.The wine I pulled from the cellar was a bottle of Molly Dooker “Two Left Feet” from 2008. It is a blend of 68% Shiraz, 17% Merlot and 15% Cabernet added into the mix. Was enjoyable upon release with cellaring potential but today … it was impeccably stylish despite its hefty 16% alcohol displaying wonderful balance with impressive depth and complexity. Raspberries, plums, dark fruits and chocolate still very much evident, just more integrated and relaxed giving the impression I’ve arrived at the point I always knew I would be. Enjoy!   

Benton Lane Winery: All Estate grown fruit from Willamette Valley

Benton Lane Winery: All Estate grown fruit from Willamette Valley

Founded by Steve and Carol Girard- yes, you guessed it, one and the same people that established Girard Winery in Napa- one of my favorites. In the course of producing some amazing wines in Napa, Mary discovered, and fell in love with Pinot Noir and convinced Steve on the grape’s merits.

Just a short note …

I wrote a monthly newsletter for 6 years and my dilemma was always how long should the story be and how much information. The same question arose when I was convinced to start this blog. All of that being said, I will post both longer articles and shorter ones and welcome comments. The focus will be on all things wine but occasionally, I will include semi related topics. I want this to be a broad discussion forum on wine, written in English, albeit an Australian version, and not ‘winese’ and with a sense of humor. In others words, let’s not take ourselves too seriously. I look forward to this journey!

I also have a few friends in the wine business who have an urge to write thoughts down on occasion so I may feature them from time to time.  

There is something magical about swirling a glass of wine, allowing the aroma’s to give you an impression of what your about to taste or better yet issue an invitation to indulge in a wonderful experience that you will never forget … and to that end I might suggest we are collectors of experiences, and memories, rather than just bottles of wine.