Enticing Spanish Gem- Dominio Fournier Tempernillo Reserva 2016

You have heard me speak highly of Spanish wines before- not only their great quality but their exceptional value. This area is known for high-quality Reserva wines, and harsh weather with their oldest plantings dating back 60 years, sitting 780 feet above sea level. It is an easy 2-hour drive north of Madrid and southeast of Rioja.

Their vineyards hug two km of the Duero River that weaves its way through 70 km of the Ribera del Duero region. The Wine Label shows the river and the vineyard locations.

Established before the Denominación de Origen was created, it governs not only regional boundaries but the wine, and food standards in Spain- both of which are an inseparable concept in Spain.

Ribera del Duero wines fall into three categories:

1. Crianza: Must be aged at least one year in oak barrels.

2. Reserva: Must be aged at least one year in oak barrels, and an additional two or more years in bottles.

3. Gran Reserva: Must be aged at least two years in oak barrels and an additional three or more years in bottles.

This Reserva is made from 100% Tinta del Pais, or Tinto Fino, as it is known locally, but you will know it as Tempranillo.  

Locals use different names, claiming local growing conditions produce characteristics that are completely different from Tempranillo grown elsewhere, believing they are fresher, and more elegant in style.

The nose is dominated by enticing dark fruits, baking spices, and olives.

The is silky smooth with layers of blackberries, dark cherries, black currant, and cranberry, with secondary notes of olives, spices, leather, black licorice, and black tea. Tannins are evident, chewy with a boldness that demands your attention. Nice savory notes on a long finish. May need a few years of cellaring to soften the tannins but it will be worth it.

Cellar out to 2030 – 2035 depending on how aged you like your wines.

Pairings should include Beef, Lamb, and Game.

Talbott Vineyards & Kamee Knutson Do It Again!

I got to taste all the new Sleepy Hollow Vineyard wines. The vineyards are located in the Northern section of the Santa Lucia Highlands ‘valley’ and spread across three sites, aptly named Sleepy Hollow North, West, and South.

Two things should be noted about these unique sites, first, as you head south towards Paso Robles the temperature increases about a degree or so every mile (AVA is 18 miles long), and second, the cool ocean breezes are channeled down the valley dropping the temperature enough to stall grape development by 11 am every day.

This produces extended hang time from bud break in February to harvest in October resulting in exceptional quality, depth, and complexity in both their Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs.

Their Winemaker Kamee Knutson attributes their exceptional success to unique vineyard sites, matching French clones to those specifically chosen sites, use of French Oak only and a ‘Hands Off’ approach to her winemaking.

The single vineyard releases really raise the bar to atmospheric heights, unfortunately you must visit the Winery to get a hold of them, none are available in Indiana.

Montecillo Singladuras Rias Baixas Albarino 2022

The standard of Albarino has risen noticeably in the past 5 years, or is it that the better ones are finally reaching US shores? Whatever the reason, they have been super impressive, this being the second in as many weeks where I thought this could be the best of the year.

This has a deep yellowish-green color that seems to come alive in the glass.

The aromas of citrus and fresh-cut peach are enough to make you want to take a sip.

The palate is crisp and clean, with none of the effervescence you can experience with Alberino’s. Great acidity and balance with layers of peach, citrus, and a hint of guava, and a note of saline on the finish. Velvety smooth finish with nice length.

This will cellar out 3- 5 years, but you may lose some of the freshness to a rounder mouthfeel. I love it the way it is.

Pairings should include octopus, scallops, seafood, clams, oysters, and baked fish. I can also see this going well with a chicken dish with a creamy lemon sauce and vegetables on the side.

Val Do Avia Treixadura 2021

If you have not heard of the grape varietal, Treixadura, do not be concerned, you are in good company. It is originally from Portugal but is grown in Spain, especially in Ribeiro and Rías Baixas. This one is from Rías Baixas. There is a lot of documented history so rather than repeat it here, check out: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Treixadura

It is primarily used as a blending grape adding body and light lemony aromatics, but it is possible to find single varietal releases.

As a single varietal, the first thing you notice is the deep, almost aged Chardonnay, golden yellow. The nose displays rich aromas of citrus, white flowers, white peach, and papaya skin.

The palate is, not surprisingly, different from anything I have tasted before. The wine has a rich, waxy mouthfeel balanced with nice acidity with an aged texture about it that reaches down into the middle palate. Interwoven layers of ripe pear, green apple, and stone fruits with hints of

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citrus and orange peel made me think wow, interesting wine. The second sip confirms its uniqueness, and it is most definitely a wine worth drinking. I would guess this will cellar out another 3 – 5 years.

Pairing rule, eat dishes from the same region as the wine originates from. I would stick to white meats such as seafood, chicken, and tapas.

Villa Puccini Governo All’Uso Tuscano 2022

This is a blend of predominately Sangiovese with a splash of Ciliegiolo, and Cabernet Sauvignon, which they allow to hang a little longer, and dry on the vine.

Governo usually refers to the Government but, in this case, it refers to an old vinification process that is mainly used, and presumably developed in Tuscany. Related to this, is the expression on the bottle all’uso Tuscano which translates to “in the Tuscan way” This method makes the wine darker, deeper in flavor, and smoother, with higher levels of alcohol- this is 14%.

The wine has enticing aromas of red fruits, blackberries, vanilla, and a hint of tobacco.

The palate is all blackberries, black currant, and dark red cherries, chocolate, with secondary notes of plums, dark chocolate, and black raspberries. There is a bit of sweetness that comes from the late-picked Cabernet Sauvignon and the Ciliegiolo, which is typically added to enhance the aroma and juiciness and soften more tannic varietals. Ciliegiolo means “cherry” in Italian.

This wine can be cellared up to 2030 and beyond.

Pairings should include your favorite Italian dishes, red meat dishes in any form, Osso Buco, and Pizza. Let us not forget creamy mushroom Risotto or Chicken dishes with some rustic garden herbs.

The 2022 Harvest in Italy has been called the ‘Harvest to End All Harvests’

This has been compared to the 1828, 1947, 1967, 1994, and 2011 harvests.

The 2022 Harvest has been described as a ‘miracle harvest’ and will first show up in the US with Rosé, Whites, and then Reds which will trickle in over the next 5 years.

The question is, could this be the greatest Harvest ever?

I found this quote somewhere but do not remember where- apologies.

“After a short, wet spring and a long hot summer, with a little help from the scirocco and the maritime breezes, the harvest of 2022 in Italy will go down as one of the surprisingly greatest in history. ‘Definitely, the harvest of the decade if not the century!’ one independent winemaker in the Langhe exclaimed. In Tuscany, as well, the elderly Montalcino scions noted that they hadn’t seen a harvest like this ‘since 1967.’ And in the Veneto, Amarone producers were licking their lips over a protracted growth season with ‘potentially gobs and gobs of great Amarone to come, nothing as we have seen since 1947.’ Not to be outdone the Etna producers amplified the feeling from the peninsula and went one step further. ‘We have not seen a wine harvest like this since 1828 – this is the harvest of the millennial.’ So be it. the greatest harvest Italy has ever seen, mark their words. 

There are two types of Shiraz, one you have come to know and love, and the other, has bubbles. Welcome to diversity.

Inkberry Shiraz Cabernet Blend 2019 – over delivers!

This will appeal to anyone who is a fan of Shiraz, Cabernet or Paso style wines.

This is a blend of 60% Shiraz and 40% Cabernet and is quintessential Australian. You will not find it anywhere else. Grapes are sourced from Single Vineyard Estate fruit located in the Central Ranges in New South Wales at an elevation around 2,000 feet. The elevation and the intense sunshine give the grapes a dark ‘inky’ appearance.

There is a lot going on, with the nose, both varietals walking in harmony with dark fruits- ripe blackberries, and plums edging out hints of blueberries, and cherries.

The palate is juicy, silky smooth and inviting with layers of blackberries, plums, and black currant with secondary notes of black raspberries, and red fruits with a vanilla mocha thing mixing things up on the finish. Great balance with a sense of completeness- everything is where it should be.

Cellar out until 2030 plus with confidence.

I have some 2010’s in my cellar and they are drinking beautifully.

Pairings should include pretty much any red meat, cooked the way you like it. Its just about grilling season and this is the wine you will want to drink while grilling, while eating, and after dinner as well.

Davey & Browne ‘Black Bubbles’ NV

When is a Shiraz, not a Shiraz?

I remember the first time I poured this for lunch guests at home, several years ago, they looked at the champagne flute oddly and exclaimed, it’s cold, and has bubbles, and it’s black. What is this?

Made from Shiraz, sourced from McLaren Vale vineyards over several different vintages, blended to bring you just the right amount of balance, restraint, tannins, and acidity, with just a hint of sweetness, all crafted for your drinking pleasure.

One sip and you will realize this is a very unique experience.

Aromas of dark fruits and cherries entice you to take a sip.

The palate clean, crisp, and refreshing with a ‘creamy’ mouthfeel, albeit wrapped in bubbles. The whole concept of black and sparkling framing blackberries, black currants, plums, dark cherries, dark chocolate, and raspberries can take a minute to adjust to. By the second sip your palate feels right at home and your brain is says more please. It is definitely Shiraz, just totally different. An absolute delight to drink.

I tasted this in two different glasses, a ‘traditional’ champagne flute, and second, a glass designed for drinking Pinot Grigio- it looks a little like a champagne flute on steroids. At the end of the day, I did not have a preference.

This will cellar out 2-3 years without a problem.

Pairing should include … This is made to drink before or after dinner, but you could successfully pair this with BBQ Ribs, Chinese Roasted Duck with Cherry Salsa, Roasted Turkey and of course Dark Chocolate Mousse.

Allan Scott Family Winemakers – 2023 Sauvignon Blanc

This displays all that Marlborough Sav Blanc is known for: aromas of citrus and tropical fruits- passionfruit, tangerine with a hint of green peppers and ginger.

The palate is expressive, mouthwatering, and inviting with notes of lime and tangerine with passionfruit, mango and ginger making their presence felt on the midpalate. Nice length on the finish with just a hint of sweetness. Mouthfeel is rounded without sacrificing acidity and crispness with impressive balance.  This is definitely one for Spring and Summer- which looks and feels a lot like this coming week.

Drink over the next year or two. There is always another vintage around the corner.

Pairings should include Asian-style seafood dishes – oysters, scallops, crab, clams, lobster, prawns – any shellfish with zingy flavors or a citrus or garlic marinade or dressing. Thai food generally, especially a green chicken curry, Grilled fish especially squid* or swordfish, dishes with herbs and greens – salmon with dill, for instance, but great with recipes that contain basil, coriander, rocket and especially mint.

Salads with goats’ cheese and feta, asparagus, avocado or grilled red peppers, fresh tomato salads or salads with fennel, mango, or papaya. Try adding some tabbouleh to your salad- works the same as adding a wine to the sauce- tightens the pairing a little more.  

John Duval- proves there is life after Penfolds Grange.

After three decades of making Grange, he left to embark on a new venture, John Duval Wines. He started with one wine- Plexus adding Entity in 2004, Eligo, a reserve Shiraz in 2005, then Plexus White, Annexus Grenache in 2013 and Annexus Mataro in 2016 and Integro.

I had an incredible opportunity to attend both a masterclass & lunch hosted by esteemed winemaker John Duval who has played a significant role in shaping Penfold’s grange legacy.

As you can see by the photo, typical October day in Chicago. Some of the wines we tasted include:

2020 Plexus Marsanne, Roussanne, Viognier.

2022 Concilio Grenache.

2021 Compono Cabernet Sauvignon.

2010 Plexus Shiraz, Grenache, Mourvèdre.

2012 Plexus SGM.

2020 Plexus SGM.

2008 Entity Shiraz.

2010 Entity Shiraz.

2021 Entity Shiraz.

2019 Annexus Grenache.

2016 Annexus Mataro.

2021 Annexus Mataro.

2008 Eligo Shiraz.

2013 Eligo Shiraz.

2018 Eligo Shiraz.

As you can imagine, an awesome time was had by all. Thank you, John Duval.

‘The Mariner’ Never Fails to Impress. Dry Creek Vineyards does it again.

Dry Creek Vineyards ‘The Mariner’ 2019

This is a blend of 61% Cabernet, 18% Merlot, 11% Malbec, 8% Petit Verdot, and 2% Cab Franc, all sourced from their own Dry Creek Vineyards in Northern Sonoma.

The Mariner had its initial launch in 2007 with the release of its 2004 vintage and was well received with a conservative 93 pt rating from Wine Enthusiast. To read a little more about the name go to: The Story of “The Mariner” – Dry Creek Vineyard

Established in 1972, and still family owned and run, their ‘no compromise’ attitude stands even stronger today. Their goal of remaining one of the last family-owned, iconic wineries that consistently produce 90+ point wines has been achieved and remains firm. All 185 acres are certified sustainably farmed vineyards.

This is a big, rich lush wine that coats the mouth from start to finish, and succeeds at putting a smile on your face from the first sip- always a good sign in my book.

Rich ripe aromas of dark fruits with a hint of mocha and spices, envelope your senses and promises much.

The palate delivers on the promise with intertwined layers of ripe blackberries, dark cherries, mocha coffee, and dark chocolate with secondary notes of black currant, and plum, with some spices wrapped in an earthy savory note from the mid palate to a long finish. It has all the elegance, balance, and power one would expect from this blend and region. A delight to drink.

I have several earlier vintages in my cellar and it never disappoints, and this is no exception.

I would expect this to cellar out to 2033 without a problem- your patience will be rewarded.

Pairings should include Lamb T Bone chops with fresh tomatoes and basil, NY Strips, Prime Ribs and Filet Mignon, Beef Lasagna, and pepperoni pizza. Pork will also work well if you have an earlier vintage.