Vine to Table

Bertani Winery- their new 1 Cru Di Bertani wine plus one other exceptional Valpolicella release.

Their new releases of wines dubbed 1 CRU DI BERTANI are exceptional wines reflecting both their attitude to winemaking and the unique vineyards the grapes are sourced from. Two important labels have birthed out of this new project and their desire to produce wines that are extraordinary drinking wines that reflect the classic Valpolicella style. The Ognisanti Valpolicella Classico Superiore is one of them, and reviewed below, showcases their approach and attitude perfectly.

These two wines unquestionably raise the standard of Valpolicella’s

I have been a fan of Bertani wines for a couple of decades now, these guys produce such consistently impressive wines and have been perfecting their artistry since 1857. Whilst researching this winery I discovered the following statement, which is in line with my history of experience and perception …

“Being consistent with our most authentic identity is fundamental for us here at Bertani. Having an identity means staying faithful to authenticity and transparency; it means acting responsibly and making constant progress without betraying our own identity or vision.”
Source: www.Bertani.net

Orgnisanti Di Novare Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2020

This is predominately Corvina Veronese- 95% with just a splash of Rondinella sourced from the Ognisanti vineyard, located in the historic Tenuta Novare Estate in Arbizzano di Negrar. The vineyard gained its name from the nearby Ognisanti Church. Enticing aromas of cherries, vanilla, raspberries, and subtle spices dominate, begging you to take a sip. The palate is silky smooth with an almost Pinot texture, but it is all Corvina and Rondinella.

Cherries dominate with secondary notes of red currents, plums, raspberries, and cooking spices- white pepper. There is just a hint of sweetness that shines through the impressive elegance and balance, great length on the finish leaving you with the desire to pour yourself another glass. Everything is where it should be with this wine, with exceptional versatility and appeal. Tannins and acidity are evident but kept in check.

Cellar out to 2030 and beyond with confidence.

Pairings should include pizza, antipasti, bruschetta, and any lighter dish with a red pasta sauce including Chicken Cacciatore. I tasted this with an extra sharp cheddar with a Rosemary cracker and it was a great pairing- albeit a little out of the ordinary.

Decanting for an hour or so will be beneficial. Despite being a lighter-bodied wine, I would drink from a large bowled red wine glass to focus the aromas- see photo.

Catullo Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore 2019

I always look forward to tasting Ripasso’s and this is no exception. They have the reputation of being a baby Amarone, without the price tag.

This is a blend of 70% Corvina Veronese, 20% Corvinone, and 10% Rondinella and carries the designation of Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore.

Delicate aromas of cherries, raspberries, cranberries, and white pepper are presented for your satisfaction.

The palate confirms the nose and much more. Tightly woven layers of cherries, cranberries, raspberries, and raisins, with secondary notes of vanilla, white pepper, and red currents tie a neat bow completing the package. Excellent balance with all the elegance and complexity you would expect from a Classico Superiore.

Did I mention the subtle raisin sweetness? Not as brash as other Ripasso’s I have tasted, presented with restraint. These two wines are quality all around and an absolute delight to drink.

Cellar out to 2033 without a worry.

Pairings should include pizza, antipasti, bruschetta, and any lighter dish with a red pasta sauce including Chicken Cacciatore, as well as Roasted Chicken, Ham, and of course any pasta with red meat.

Decanting for an hour or so will be beneficial. Despite being a lighter-bodied wine, I would drink from a large bowled red wine glass to focus the aromas- see photo.

Cain Concept ‘The Benchland’ Red Blend, Napa, 2015.

This is an impressive blend of 64% Cabernet, 31% Petit Verdot, 3% Cab Franc, and 2% Merlot with all the elegance and restraint you come to expect from some of the best vineyards in Napa.

Grapes were sourced from the following Vineyards: Rutherford: Morisoli Borges, Beckstoffer George III, Hudson; Carneros: Truchard; Atlas Peak: Stagecoach.

Allow me to break the bad news first. Cain Winery was wiped off the map, vineyards, and all in the devastating 2020 Glass Fire. Their neighbors, Philip Togni Vineyard were lucky, escaping with little damage. A tragedy that I would argue would rival anything else in the Valley’s history. The entire 2019 vintage in barrels and 2020 in tanks was destroyed, and half of their library of wines, going back to the mid-1980s gone. Not to mention 90% of the vineyards. Luckily, about half of the library wines were stored off-site.

The vineyards have been replanted and the winery is getting built again and their resilience shines through, but it will take a while. Spring Mountain will not be the same.

Enticing aromas of dark fruits, violets, blueberries, raspberries, and cherries highlight the quality of what is to come. So much going on with this wine. Do not rush it, savor the moment.

The palate is outstanding with big bold regal fruits on display in seamless layers of black and blue berries dominating with secondary layers of cherries, raspberries, plum, dark chocolate, and tobacco with just a hint of spices. All this is delivered on a silky-smooth mouthfeel, impressive balance, and texture all the way through on a long finish.

Every great wine should tell a story, and this one is a good story!

Cellar out to 2035 with confidence.

Pairings should include your favorite beef, lamb, and game dishes.

Bertani Winery- their new 1 Cru Di Bertani wine plus one other exceptional Valpolicella release.

Their new releases of wines dubbed 1 CRU DI BERTANI are exceptional wines reflecting both their attitude to wine making and the unique vineyards the grapes are sourced from. Two important labels have birthed out of this new project and their desire to produce wines that are extraordinary drinking wines that reflect the classic Valpolicella style. The Ognisanti Valpolicella Classico Superiore is one of them, and reviewed below, showcase their approach and attitude perfectly.

These two wines unquestionably raise the standard on Valpolicella’s

I have been a fan of Bertani wines for a couple of decades now, these guys produce such consistently impressive wines and have been perfecting their artistry since 1857. Whilst researching this winery I discovered the following statement, which is in-line with my history of experience and perception …

“Being consistent with our most authentic identity is fundamental for us here at Bertani. Having an identity means staying faithful to authenticity and transparency; it means acting responsibly and making constant progress without betraying our own identity or vision” Source: www.Bertani.net

Orgnisanti Di Novare Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2020

Enticing aromas of cherries, vanilla, raspberries, and subtle spices dominate, begging you to take a sip. The palate is silky smooth with an almost Pinot texture, but it is all Corvina and Rondinella. Cherries dominate with secondary notes of red currents, plums, raspberries, and cooking spices- white pepper. There is just a hint of sweetness that shines through the impressive elegance and balance, great length on the finish leaving you with the desire to pour yourself another glass. Everything is where it should be with this wine, with exceptional versatility and appeal. Tannins and acidity are evident but kept in check.

Cellar out to 2030 and beyond with confidence.

Catullo Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore 2019

I always look forward to tasting Ripasso’s and this is no exception. They have the reputation of being a baby Amarone, without the price tag.

This is a blend of 70% Corvina Veronese, 20% Corvinone, and 10% Rondinella and carries the designation of Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore.

Delicate aromas of cherries, raspberries, cranberries, and white pepper are presented for your satisfaction.

The palate confirms the nose and much more. Tightly woven layers of cherries, cranberries, raspberries, and raisins, with secondary notes of vanilla, white pepper and red currents tie a neat bow completing the package. Excellent balance with all the elegance and complexity you would expect from a Classico Superiore.

Did I mention the subtle raisin sweetness? Definitely not as brash as other Ripasso’s I’ve tasted, presented with restraint. These two wines are quality all round and an absolute delight to drink.

Cellar out to 2033 without a worry.

Pairings should include pizza, antipasti, bruschetta, and any lighter dish with a red pasta sauce including Chicken Cacciatore, as well as Roasted Chicken, Ham, and of course any pasta with red meat.

Decanting for an hour or so will be beneficial. Despite being a lighter bodied wine, I would drink from a large bowled red wine glass to focus the aromas- see photo.

What Are You Drinking on Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday Nights?

Funcken Hausen Vineyards

In the late 1800’s the Funcken Family were one of many German families to emigrate from Funckenhausen to Mendoza and, years later, Kurt Heinlein established Funckenhausen Vineyards, in the San Rafael appellation of South Mendoza. His grandson Alejandro with his grandfather continues the family tradition growing and producing very good drinking wines at absolute budget pricing- most definitely a Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday night wine and there is plenty to share with friends, they come in a 1-liter bottle.

Malbec Blend 2021

This is a blend of 60% Malbec, 20% Bonarda, and 20% Syrah and is a result of the distinctive soil and the terroir in the foothills of the Andes mountains near the banks of the Diamante River. The nose is all blackberries, blueberries with a hint of plum and cherry. The palate is juicy, with nice acidity and balance showcasing layers of blackberry jam, and plum, with hints of cherries and figs.

Food pairings should include leaner cut beef, lamb, duck, or pork. Peperoni pizza and meat lasagna would also work well.

Cabernet Sauvignon 2020

This is a blend of 90% Cabernet, 7% Malbec and 3% Petit Verdot.

The nose is dominated blackberries, and black current. The palate consists of blackberries, black currents, and dark chocolate with secondary notes of black raspberries, black cherries, and plums.

Food pairings should include red meats, burgers, short ribs, and steaks and let us not forget mushrooms, in risotto and pizza with gouda cheese.

From the Cellar- December 2023.

It’s become a tradition at home to pull out something nice the day after Christmas and enjoy it with a nice meal. The focus is always the wine and not so much the pairing- this year it was vegetable Lasagna.

Torbreck RunRig 2003 – something from the Cellar.

This is Torbreck’s flagship Shiraz and is sourced from 8 different Barossa vineyards ranging from 94- to 158-year-old vines and is co-fermented with 4-5% Viognier. At the 20-year point this qualifies as an exceptional definitive Barossa Shiraz.

Your patience will be most definitely rewarded if you have some of this in your cellar, it is drinking so exceptionally well at the moment. Absolutely impressive.

The nose is enticing with layers of blackberry jam, blueberries, mocha, and plums.

The palate is reminiscent of a 1971 Penfolds Grange I drank in 1996. Silky smooth mouthfeel, impressive balance- everything is where it should be, exceptional length on the back end and an almost raisin sweetness on the finish. Absolutely no bricking round the edges despite being 20 years old. Seamless layers of blackberry jam, blueberries sweet raisins, mocha, plum, black current, with secondary notes of apricot, leather, and

sweet tobacco- indicating some of the grapes were sourced from northern Barossa.

I would bet on this lasting another 10 plus years- 2033.

Food pairings should and red meat dishes- just make sure it is worthy of Royality.

If you can get your hands on this wine for under $200, go for it. Highly recommended.

If you’re curious Wine Advocate gave this 99 Pt.

Two California Cabernets you can afford to drink at Christmas without breaking the bank.

Mac and Billy Cellars M Cabernet 2021 – Paso Robles.

This blend of 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Malbec, 5% Merlot, 5% Petite Sirah comes from a collaboration of McPrice “Mac” Myers and Billy Grant- two heavy hitters from the Paso region, who believe in sun, soil, and grit to make great wine.

“M is a tribute to the mavericks; those who came before us, who farmed this area with grit and determination, and those who continue the legacy today with mettle and moxie.” Source: www.macandbilly.com

Rich enticing aromas of blackberry, chocolate, and blueberries with a hint of licorice, leather, and oak to balance things out. The palate is deep and rich and inviting with a plush appealing mouthfeel that coats from top to bottom. I warn you- this is way to easy to drink. Intertwined layers of blackberries, dark plum, and chocolate dominate with secondary layers of sweet oak, leather, olives, cooking herbs, and licorice. This remarkable mouthful of flavors is framed in fine grained tannins that results in wonderful balance,

with impress depth and complexity- all at a crazy price that screams OVER DELIVER!

Will cellar out to 2034 without a problem.

Food pairings should include Beef dishes, steak, big game- any dish with red meat will work, burgers with cheese, Roasted or Grilled Lamb, and Chicken Cacciatore.

Emblem Cabernet from Napa 2018

This wine is the latest offering from siblings Rob Mondavi Jr. and sister Dina Mondavi who collaborated to produce this blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Sirah, 5% Petit Verdot and is sourced from two vineyards in the heart of Napa. The Oso Vineyard is nestled between Sugarloaf and Howell Mountains, and the second is from a single vineyard located in Rutherford east of the Napa River extending to Conn Creek. Two impressive sites, to say the least.

This has all the trademarks of Napa Cab soured from two great vineyards, with old world charm, rich mouthfeel, and a side serving of elegance … without the traditional Napa price tag.

Aromas of blackberries, currents, black cherries, and spices will entice you to take a sip. Savor the moment, let it breath, then take a sip. Afterall, drinking wine is all about enjoying it, not rushing it.

The palate delivers all the blackberries, dark cherries, and black currents from the nose with additional layers of dark chocolate mocha, spices with just a hint of plum and earthy notes on a long-refined finish. A well put together wine displaying balance, with depth & complexity, that will show further improvement with cellaring out to 2030.

Same food pairings as above: Beef dishes, steak, big game- any dish with red meat will work, burgers with cheese, Roasted or Grilled Lamb.

Frankland Estate Wines- another undiscovered gem from West Australia.

Huon Hooke believes ‘Frankland Estate has emerged as one of the great vineyards in Australia’

Imagine leaving Perth and driving south east for 3.5 hours with nothing but scrub through ‘towns’ you cannot pronounce eventually travelling through Kojonup, population 878, about the only major town in outback WA. You think your lost, in the middle of nowhere, when suddenly you come across rows and rows of pristine vines, bright green and you think it is a mirage- welcome to Frankland Estate Vineyards.

The back label will tell you the vineyard, appropriately named Isolation Vineyard, about 140 miles east, southeast of Margaret River and about 35 miles from the coast, as the crows fly. The vineyards are certified organic and are entirely Estate grown fruit and is a family run. Did I mention just how unique the soil is?

For more information and photos go to https://www.franklandestate.com.au/

There is way more to the story, there are the wines …

Riesling 2021

Delightful aromas of lime and tropical fruits confirms its an Australian dry Riesling, with just a twist on the traditional Clare Valley profile.

The palate is a delicate mix of juicy ripe limes, Mayer lemons, with a side serving of tangerine peel, apricot, and white peach, with just a hint of sweetness on a long finish. Impressive depth and complexity frame almost seamless layers of flavors.

Excellent balance that will ensure 8 – 10 years of cellaring will be rewarded. The apricot and juicy lime linger on the palate leaving you with an insatiable desire to take another sip. This really is a delight to drink. Its not surprising James Halliday gave it a 95pt rating.

For those glass ware aficionado’s, you may have noticed I’m tasting from a Riedel Pinot Grigio glass. I have discovered, through experimenting, they work exceptionally well with dry Riesling’s- see the photo.

Ideal pairings should include Lobster, crab, scallops, wild caught Chilian Salmon with teriyaki sauce, and pan-fried chicken with a lemon, lime, honey, and garlic sauce.

This provides an excellent argument for Frankland River being a second, exceptional region for Chardonnay in WA. 2021 saw excellent growing conditions with warm days and cool nights producing elegance and ripe fruits making timing critical for picking to make it just right.

Chardonnay 2021

The nose shows some elegance and restraint with ripe red apples, pineapple and vanilla dominating.

The palate showcases juicy red apples, pineapple, honeydew melon, with secondary notes of white nectarine (somewhat like a peach) and vanilla. Smooth approachable mouthfeel makes this very easy to drink. Great balance and acidity with a clean finish.

This will cellar out to 2028 without a problem.

Pairings should include shellfish, scallops, and smoked salmon. Also consider Indian, Chinese, and Southeast Asian dishes focusing more on spices, and not chili peppers.

Cabernet 2019.

Swirling aromas of red and black fruits pour for the glass with just a hint pencil shaving. The palate is noticeably bigger than the nose and made in an older leaner style with elegance on display despite its size. Dark cherries, blackberries and tobacco leaf dominate with secondary notes of cranberry, dark chocolate, and earthy savory notes. Great balance, fine grain tannins and nice length on the finish with just a touch of sweetness.

Pairings should include New York strip, ribeye, and sirloin steak, Lamb, and anything with mushrooms. A burger topped with smoked Gouda, aged cheddar, or blue cheese, plus bacon, and of course sauteed mushrooms. Also consider dates wrapped in bacon.

Will cellar out to 2030 with ease.

The 2020 Shiraz is certainly the best Shiraz I have tasted from West Australia in years.

Welcome to the world of Frankland River and Shiraz- delicious, with regional differences that make you want to explore further.

This is an impressive wine from the outset. Enticing nose of ripe lush dark fruits, and like the Cabernet, an earthy savory note, that adds another interesting layer.

Shiraz 2020.

Welcome to the world of Frankland River and Shiraz- delicious, with regional differences that make you want to explore further.

This is an impressive wine from the outset. Enticing nose of ripe lush dark fruits, and like the Cabernet, an earthy savory note, that adds another interesting layer.

The palate displays fine silky tannins and mouthfeel inviting you to enjoy all this wine has to offer.

This had both depth and complexity with enough elegance and restraint to balance the lush rich layers of blackberries, blueberries, and plums, with a sweet savory note and a pinch of cooking spices.

Will cellar out to 2030 and beyond.

Pairings should include New York strip, ribeye, and sirloin steak, burgers from the grill, especially with firmer cheeses and a generous dose of cooking herbs and spices, Peperoni Pizza, and beef Lasagna.

Final thought, these are really enjoyable wines- spend the time to seek them out.

It’s National Zinfandel Day tomorrow, or is it?

Is the third Wednesday in November which would be the 15th. Somehow it got shifted to the 17th … something about a conflict with Beaujolais Nouveau Day, although that is always on the third Thursday of November. Confusion aside for a minute …

The Crljenak Kaštelanski grape, which translates to “the red from Kaštela” was confirmed in 2002 to be what we call Zinfandel. It came via Italy and was called Primitivo, mainly because it is the Italian word for flower first, which it does.

It was then transported to America in the 1850’s and is believed to be the first varietal planted in Amador County, California. It is also considered ‘the American Grape’ much the same as Malbec is to Argentina. There is still rootstock that is believed to be over 150 years old there.

There isn’t a legal definition for ‘old vine’ but 40 years seems to be the accepted as old by winemakers.

Zinfandel’s can range from big, plump, and juicy, or Jammy to elegant and restrained, all have a hint of spice, and all are big substantial wines. Like Shiraz, they go great with grilling, especially red meats, Pepperoni Pizza, and Hearty meat stews.

I have several favorite Zinfandel the Old Ghost is one I tasted this week.

Klinker Brick ‘Old Ghost’ Old Vine Zinfandel 2020.

Definitely falls into the plump and juicy category with some restraint thrown in, just to throw you off, but just for a second. This is sourced from Klinker Bricks best vineyards and the best from those vineyards.

The nose showcases black pepper, spices, ripe dark cherries, blackberries, and plums.

The palate has fine layers of blackberry jam, ripe dark cherries, plum, dark chocolate, and vanilla, with secondary notes of spices, black pepper, cloves, and licorice- all of which balance out the ripe, jammy qualities that are so evident on your first sip.

Nice balance with surprising depth and complexity.

Pairings should include beef, lamb, and chicken, as well as suggestions above.

Two California Gems.

Nick Goldschmidt, the winemaker is truly an international winemaker. Born in New Zealand, and raised in Australia, he became, arguably the first ‘flying winemaker’. He starts his year making wine in Barossa, in South Australia, them flying to California to make wine, then on to Argentina to round the year out.

His schedule is a little different today. He lives in Sonoma, he still makes wine in Argentina and has added New Zealand to his roster, whilst involved in projects in Chile, Mexico, with new projects in France, and Canada. He shows absolutely no signs of slowing down.

The ‘Katherine’ Cabernet is named after his middle daughter.

“A proprietary name rather than a single-vineyard wine, the Katherine Cabernet is perfect for casual dining and discerning tasters looking for an elegant drop with loads of personality and style”
Source: www.goldschmidtvineyards.com

This wine has been predominately sourced (since 2018) from the Stonemason Hill Vineyard which has produced some excellent Cabernet due to the stoney soil, elevation, dry farming practices, and of course old vines.

2022 was a low yielding vintage with small berries which produce more black fruits reminiscent of Napa rather than the traditional red fruits of Alexander Valley.

Goldschmidt Katherine Cabernet 2022

Enticing aromas of Black Cherries, and Blueberries dominate the nose, with just a hint of dark chocolate, vanilla, oak, and spices adding another dimension.

The palate is rich and lush with just the right amount of restraint and elegance. One sip and you will agree, this wine over delivers! Layers of black cherries, blackberries, blueberries, and chocolate will impress you no end with secondary layers oak, spices, and a complementary earthy note to complete the package. Nice approachable tannins and balance, everything is where it should be.

I would pair this with grilled or roasted dishes, such as herb-crusted lamb, roasted duck, grilled pork loin, roasted vegetables, and Vegetable Lasagna.

Will cellar out to 2030 without a problem.

Let’s talk about aged wine for a minute …

Bill Easton likes to make wine the old way and seriously believes in bottle aging. I sat down to taste several of their wines last week, all current vintages, and all ranged from 2014 to 2016, and all well impressive, well made, beautifully balanced wines.

The Terre Rouge Label release only Cote du Rhone varietals, he is one of the original four Rhone Rangers in California- those who planted and championed Rhone varietals early in the piece.

The winery has placed in the Top 100 Wineries list by Wine and Spirits no less than five times.

Terre Rouge Syrah 2014.

This 100% Syrah was sourced from the Pyramid Block, Sentinel Oak Vineyard, situated in the Shenandoah Valley, California. The vines were planted in 1983 and are one of California’s best kept secrets.

Exceptional depth, complexity and balance with an impressive nose featuring aromas of rich ripe blackberries, plums, cedar with bold spices notes to round things out. Nose gave me the aged new world impression, but one sip makes you think twice with a distinct Rhone leaning.

Impressive layers of blackberries, plum, dark raspberries with black pepper and spices add to an already interesting wine.

This is a must taste wine and an absolute delight to drink.

Will further improve with up to 10 years of Cellaring.

A White Malbec and a ‘Super Tuscan’ worthy of an invitation to your next dinner party.

Artesano De Argento White Malbec 2022

‘Young Winemaker of the Year’ Juan Pablo Murgia introduces the US to ‘Artesano White Malbec’ made from 100%, Organic grapes sourced from a single vineyard, situated in the foothills of the Andes, in Mandoza, Argentina.

Made in the ‘Blanc de Noir’ technique with no skin contact and harvested early for higher acidity and stainless steel fermented producing a wine with a bright, fresh clean mouthfeel and impressive minerality.

Aromas of green apple, delicate floral notes, and citrus notes of lemons, limes, and orange peel. Think Clare Valley Dry Riesling with a hint of Loire Valley influence.

Palate is rich and inviting without scarifying crispness and acidity. Layers of apples, honeydew melon, white peach, Meyer lemons, and tangerine with just a hint of sweetness wrapped in impressive minerality on a nice long finish.

Came back and tasted this after about an hour or so and delight notes of honey, pear and a hint of saline developed. An absolute delight to drink, and who have thought a white from a red grape varietal could be so interesting- notwithstanding White Grenache, of course.

Ruffino Modus 2019

This little gem comes from Tuscany and is a blend of 39% Sangiovese, 32% Cabernet, and 29% Merlot. The grapes are sourced from Ruffino’s Poggio Casciano estate and several other selected vineyards. This wine also falls squarely into the marketing category of ‘Super Tuscan’

The name Modus comes from the Latin “meaning ‘method’ referring to the many distinct elements that come together to create a wine representative of Tuscany, each depicted in the company logo” Source: Bottle back label.

The palate is smooth and approachable, with an hour or so of decanting, displaying wonderful depth, complexity, and balance. I was surprised to read on the label the 15% alc- big for an Italian wine.

Bold dark fruits, dark cherries, blueberries, sweet rhubarb jam, with secondary layers of spices, dark chocolate, and a nice earthy note to round things out. Tannins are evident, which will dissipate with cellaring- another 10 years should do it.

I would definitely drink this with food, which should include anything Italian, but more specifically duck with olives and pancetta, beef-stuffed manicotti with Bolognese sauce, and aged cheeses including taleggio, pecorino and gouda.