Origins- Croatia.
Primitivo originally comes from an indigenous Croatian grape called crljenak kaštelansk (Kjell-nak Cas-tell-lansky)- try and pronounce that after your second glass. Before emerging as a single varietal, it was mainly used as a blending grape to increase the overall alcohol content. It’s not uncommon to be up around 16% from both Italy and the US.
A second theory emerged in 2012 and was thought to come from a Croatian grape called Tribidrag, which can be traced back at least 600 years.
US – California, Amador County.
Zinfandel cuttings were first brought to the US in the 1820s and planted in Long Island, New York, and were thought to have come from a nursery in Vienna, Austria. Its real start occurred when it was planted in Amador County in the 1850s and flourished in the Californian heat. It has done so well that it is now the third most crushed varietal in the US, and has been adopted and has now become known as the “America’s Heritage wine”
California has become the epicenter of Zin with Amador, Dry Creek, San Joaquin, and Sonoma Counties producing impressive versions. Plantings have now reached 39,000 acres, overtaking Puglia at 27,000 acres.
Italy – Puglia.
The name Primitivo comes from the Italian word meaning to flower first, because it does. Almost all of the Primitivo in Italy is grown in Puglia, the south-westernmost region- think of the heel of the boot.
With long hot summers and moderate rainfall- ideal growing conditions for Primitivo, it thrives and has been doing so since at least the 18th century.
Puglia can be broken down into three main growing regions, producing three distinctly different styles.
Manduria is characterized by the red soils of Taranto, having a profound influence, adding an appealing, acidic crispness to the overall profile. These wines are considered some of the best and most famous from Puglia.
It is also grown in Gioia del Colle, where limestone soils tame both the acidity and alcohol content with a more tannic approach. It also lays claim to being the site where the varietal was originally planted, on the Strada Comunale delle Carrare.
Plantings in Salento display an elegant, velvety mouthfeel and are sweeter. This comes from a process similar to Ripasso’s in the north, where the juice is passed over the grape skins a second time, giving it a sweeter character.
Differences.
US Zinfandels are generally bigger, bolder, richer, with floral and fruit-driven aromas and palate, featuring blackberries, black currants, plums, dark cherries, dark chocolate, blueberries, sweet tobacco, and raspberries, depending on where it’s from.
Italian is a dialed-back version of its US counterpart and not as fruit-driven, because the grapes have less time to ripen on the vine before picking. You can expect aromas and flavors on the palate of cherries, raspberries, and anise, with secondary notes of tobacco, spices, dark chocolate, or even smokiness, depending on the producer.
Two good examples include …
Seghesio Zinfandel 2023.
This is sourced from 90-year-old vines on average from Sonoma County- 82%, San Joaquin County- 10% and Contra Costa County- 8% and is a well-crafted, medium-bodied wine with plenty of depth, complexity, and appeal.
Bright aromas of Blackberries, raspberries, oak, and dark chocolate entice you to taste.
The palate has a soft, inviting mouthfeel, complementing the aromas with blueberries, plums, oak/vanilla, with a hint of spice on the finish. This is wrapped in silky, supple tannins with wonderful balance and fruit integration.
This wine cries out for red meat, so pick your favorite cut and enjoy.
Surani Primitivo di Manduria DOC 2020
Enticing aromas of violets, blackberries, and sour cherries draw you in.
The palate is unmistakably Italian, showcasing black and sour cherries, raspberries, and dark plums with tertiary notes of balsamic, licorice, and cooking herbs. Nice depth, concentration, and balance lifts this well beyond its price point.
The wine is a little like the woman on the label, mysterious, elegant, and passionate.
Food pairings should include Gourmet Hamburgers from the grill, any red meats with sweet and savory sauce, Pasta and Bolognese sauce, and of course, Pizza.
Vine to Table 