Alois Lageder Conus 2016 Riserva
Some background …
Lagrein is native to the valleys of Southern Tyrol, in northern Italy and the first mention of the ‘rott’ or red Lagrein dates back to 1526 and most likely originates in the Val Lagarina in Trentino in Northern Italy, as the name suggests. DNA testing reveals it is related to Marzemino, Syrah, Dureza, and Pinot Noir.
Despite flying under the radar, it is grown in Australia, which has become its second paternal home, growing from zero to 40 producers since the year 2000. It is also grown in Oregon and California, where it is sometimes blended with Syrah.
Alois Lageder grows it in gravely sandy soil with a high concentration of Dolomitic limestone in a little-known section of the Magrè talus cone producing this fresh, fruity well-rounded profile of their wine. The name Conus comes from the Latin word for cone.
About the wine …
Subtle hint of aging on the nose intermingled with aromas of plum, dark cherries, licorice, and spices.
The palate is velvety smooth with bitter sweet cherries, red plums, ripe blackberries, and cranberries, with traces of dark chocolate covered licorice, spices, and herbs to round things out. Tannins and acidity still very much in play leading me to believe this will cellar out to 2032 with confidence. Nice body and structure whilst remaining light on its feet. Great balance and expressiveness with impressive length on the finish.
I revisited this 24 hours later, in the bottle with the cork in, no air pulled out and it has softened to reveal its true nature, leading me to believe this needs 3 – 4 hours in a decanter to get it to this point.
When pairing, think ‘what grows together, goes together’ The region has been influenced by both Austria and Germany but manage to maintain its ‘cucina povera’ (poor cuisine) based largely on polenta, corn, and sauerkraut. All that being said, consider South Tyrolean Bretzels, ricotta dumplings on a bed of leeks with a traditional Schiacciatina from Merano, and juniper deer or lamb loin in a potato crust.
Vine to Table 